This makes a camping hammock or at least a ground pad a necessity, as either will create a barrier between your warm body and the earth. More enterprising bushcrafters and survivalists might even construct cots or use leaves, grasses, or moss to insulate the ground. These are good workarounds.

In a similar vein, a camp pillow is another necessity, not just for these reasons but for comfort. Now, there are many commercially available camp pillows you can buy, some of which are stuffed and others which are designed to be inflated with air. Some also offer passive self-inflation capabilities. 

Admittedly, a camp pillow will improve your comfort in camp and help prevent a stiff neck so you can get a better night’s sleep, and you can always tell who is the serious outdoorsman in camp by how well he slept, not how well he soldiering through midnight discomfort.

But, with that being said, just as you don’t need to buy a ground pad and can improvise a solution, you can do the same with a camp pillow. In fact, you might already be wearing the very thing to make the fix. 

It’s your shemagh scarf, and this short post will show you how to do it. 

What to Use 

The main thing about converting your shemagh scarf into a camp pillow is knowing what to stuff it with. There are lots of things you can use, but some are better than others. 

Suppose you are ultralight camping and don’t have any spare clothes. If that is the case, you will need to stuff the shemagh scarf with whatever you can find on the trail. 

Arguably the best thing for this is standing dry grass. Gather up as much of this as you can, make a big wad, and use that for the stuffing. Try to avoid sedges as they are sharp and can leave uncomfortable fibers in your shemagh scarf.

Standing, dry plant fibers can also make a solid camp pillow stuffing. Milkweed down can be a good choice at the right time of year as you can gather quite a few fistfuls easily. The drawback is that it can be sticky because milkweed sap is, so it’s best to gather it from pods that have already busted open. 

If you are near water and there are any cattails around, you can use this stuff to fill your camp pillow. The cattail “punks” as they are called are actually just a whole bunch of very densely packed fibers. If you pick a few of these, you can shred them into their constituent fibers, which will expand considerably once shorn apart. Only a few of these will produce enough fiber to easily and completely fill a camp pillow.

Dry leaves gathered off the ground can also be suitable, but there are a few things to keep in mind. One is that you should never take wet leaves, as they will make your camp pillow damp. The other is that dry leaves sometimes harbor insect life and other pests, so it’s not ideal as a camp pillow stuffing. It will work if you have nothing else, though.

But perhaps the best option of all is not to gather material to stuff your shemagh scarf with, thereby making a camp pillow, but to use what you already have. The chances are you are already carrying the best camp pillow fill in your pack and didn’t even know it yet. 

Open your pack and pull out your spare layers. These can be folded up and converted into surprisingly comfortable (and warm) camp pillow stuffing. Pull out a few shirts and pairs of pants, or socks and underwear if that’s all you have, wad them up, and use them as stuffing. 

As for making an actual camp pillow, that’s also pretty easy. Lay your shemagh scarf out, and if it’s big enough (it should be) fold it over, and then again, into a quarter of its original size. Lay your stuffing in the middle, then fold the corners inward, pinch them at the top, and flip the whole thing over. There you have it, a makeshift camp pillow. 

Of course you will want to be gentle in the night or else you will spill your filling, but you should have no problem, and if you do, try making the pillow without folding the corners over on each other. 

Alternatively, if you want to, and you have a safety pin or something similar, you can clip the corners where they meet so that the pillow can’t “come apart” and shed all its stuffing. 

There you have it, all the pointers you need to make an impromptu camp pillow from a shemagh scarf, effectively step by step, and a whole bunch of different materials you can use as fill, too. 

This way, as long as you are prepared with a shemagh scarf and just a little bit of wit, it’ll be easy for you to improvise a camp pillow so you will be not only more comfortable but also drier and warmer on the trail or in camp.

Here for a New Shemagh Scarf? 

By the way, if you don’t currently carry a shemagh scarf or have one in your pack, you probably should. These are among the most versatile of all pieces of general field gear, and have a ton of different uses. But don’t just assume that statement as fact; check out our previous post Why Your Bug-Out Bag Should Contain a Shemagh Scarf.

When you’re done, check out our online catalog that contains plenty of shemagh scarves and other useful field gear, and add a few useful things to your ALICE pack or vintage military duffle bag.  

But did you know that there is a “right” way to load an ALICE pack, especially if you’re going to be on the trail or in camp for a few days, that might differ from how you pack it for daily use, or just for storing in the trunk? 

Follow this guide and see if it helps you. 

The Sequence 

The long and short of the idea here is you want to load your ALICE pack in the opposite order of importance, and with the heaviest items first, so that they will be at the bottom of the pack, as like most other large backpacks, ALICE packs have one large, main central compartment. 

So, the first things you should load into your ALICE pack are heavy items and non-essentials like sleeping gear, that you won’t even need to get out in a hurry. This includes sleeping bags and pads, as well as spare clothes and, if you carry them, spare shoes. Packing spare shoes or boots at the bottom of your pack will also help keep any mud on them off your other gear. Make sure to separate your boots and sleeping gear if you do so. 

A special note for your sleeping pad or bag is that if you like, you may want to lash it (or them) to the bottom of the pack rather than in the pack so that they take up less room and can be moved as needed to balance the load. The same goes for your tent; if you are carrying one, lash it to the bottom (or top) of your pack in its sleeve. 

Other large, heavy, or bulky items should also be loaded into your ALICE pack first so they sit at the bottom of the pack. This includes but is not limited to any cooking equipment you are carrying, firestarting essentials or a mess kit, and other such items. 

The reason these go at the bottom of your pack is that your retrieval of them should be regimented if not scheduled. There’s not really any occasion in which you would need to get out your cooking gear or sleeping gear in a hurry. 

Once you’ve filled the base of the ALICE pack, you can move onto the middle section, where you’ll pack the majority of your gear.

This section is where you’ll want to pack other fairly heavy and bulky items that you (generally) won’t need to access at a moment’s notice. This includes but is not limited to dry foods (such as what you’d eat on the trail), spare water, and other camp gear. Any tools you’re carrying (besides your belt knife) should go in the middle of the pack. 

The top of the ALICE pack is where you’ll load your lightest items, as well as the ones you might access to at a moment’s notice. Some of the items you might want to carry at the top of your pack include:

• Rain gear (that you might need access to in a second)
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen, lip balm, bug spray, bear spray 
• A lighter water bottle 
• Your orienteering equipment (map, compass, etc.) 
• First aid essentials 
• Any toiletries you’re carrying 
• A flashlight
• Your ID and other essentials 

Alternatively, if you don’t want to pack these at the top of the pack, you can use any accessory pockets on the ALICE pack which will keep these even more accessible. 

The bottom line is that these essentials are lightweight, as a general rule take up minimal room, and might be needed at a moment’s notice, so they must be within easy reach whether you pack them at the top or in the accessory pockets. 

Is a MOLLE Backpack Better for You? 

While ALICE packs have been a staple for decades and will work for many, they lack the versatility and expandability of MOLLE backpacks equipped with MOLLE accessories that can be added or removed at will.

If you need a modular pack solution that enables you to easily add or remove dump pouches, holsters, or other MOLLE-compatible gear, then a MOLLE backpack might be a better option for you. 

Regardless, all other notes for how to properly load the pack remain the same for a MOLLE backpack, vintage duffle bag, or any other pack as they do for an ALICE pack.

Shop MOLLE Backpacks, ALICE Packs, and Vintage Duffle Bags Here

Whether you’re gearing up for a day hike or will be on the trail or in camp for an extended period, we have the gear you need to get through. Explore our catalog of outdoor essentials for camping, hiking, hunting, fishing and more and get in touch with us if you have any questions about what we sell.

There are tons of options out there, too, two of which will be explored and contrasted in this article. That being said, let’s determine whether a modern MOLLE duffle bag or a vintage military duffle bag is ultimately the better choice for you. 

Military Duffle Bags: Vintage Advantages 

There are numerous advantages associated with vintage military gear; if you’re considering getting a military duffle bag, vintage may be your best option for many reasons. 

One is the quality. Many vintage military duffle bags are made with heavy-duty cotton canvas that is relatively easy to care for, and which is durable, abrasion resistant, and extremely strong. It can also be treated with a wax or other compound to make it so water resistant that it will nearly be waterproof. 

Vintage military duffle bags, while they might not offer the same number of internal compartments, or the same degree of exterior modularity or expandability as MOLLE duffle bags, do, however, generally offer plenty of room. On top of that, many of them are well organized inside, with many internal compartments for keeping things properly organized. 

As for the aesthetics of military duffle bags, vintage options often offer the best looks. While there are some who prefer the “tactical” aesthetic of MOLLE duffle bags, there is a certain character to vintage military surplus and other field gear that is difficult to rival. Modern production often fails to meet the appeal of true vintage military gear, and duffle bags are no exception to this. 

Now we can address the price. While it is not the case that vintage military duffle bags are always cheaper, some are much more affordable than modern, new production bags, and if you go for a military surplus version, you will likely save even more on price. 

Rarity is another thing to consider. Modern MOLLE duffle bags and packs are a dime a dozen, but if you get a truly vintage duffle bag, you’re investing in what might be considered limited stock. 

And, if you care about circular economics, buying vintage is giving new life to old gear. Why buy new when you can save money and get something old that works just as well? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, and in many ways a vintage duffle bag will perform on the same level as a modern MOLLE duffle bag. 

With all of that being said, there are some buyers who would probably prefer the practicality, versatility, and above all else, the expandability of modern MOLLE duffle bags.

Military Duffle Bags: Modern MOLLE System Advantages 

First, let’s offer a brief exposition on what MOLLE actually is. MOLLE stands for “modular, lightweight, load-bearing equipment,” and is used in conjunction with PALS, or “pouch attachment ladder system” webbing, that are often called “MOLLE slots.” MOLLE systems are currently used by the United States Armed Forces in field gear.

The unique attachment system of MOLLE duffle bags means that they can be endlessly expanded, and each one can be configured in effectively an endless variety of ways. MOLLE and PALS systems enable easy expansion through MOLLE-compatible field gear, which can be attached in a variety of different ways, such as with hook and loop fasteners or snap flaps. 

In this manner, additional pouches, bags, and other field gear can be attached to the exterior of a MOLLE duffle bag. This offers several advantages. One is that attaching pouches and other MOLLE gear to the exterior of a duffle bag helps visually organize them. Another is that it keeps them readily accessible. On top of these advantages, it also keeps the interior of the pack free. 

In addition to pouches and other accessories that enable you to expand a MOLLE duffle bag, it is also the case that some field gear can be attached directly to the MOLLE webbing via carabiners, clips, and other basic attachments. This means that you can carry MOLLE-compatible knives, tools, lights, cups, and other field gear directly on the exterior of most MOLLE systems.

Whereas many vintage military duffle bags are often made from cotton canvas, most modern MOLLE duffle bags are made with ballistic nylon. This is generally more affordable than cotton canvas and offers many of the same advantages. It is highly durable and abrasion resistant, and is relatively easy to care for. 

Modern MOLLE duffle bags may be more expensive than military surplus or vintage duffle bags, but considering their modularity and expandability, for some users, they might work better. 

Which Is for You? 

Whether a vintage military duffle bag is better for you, or a modern MOLLE duffle bag or backpack would work better, ultimately comes down to your preferences. 

If you like a vintage aesthetic or you want to save a few dollars, and you don’t care about being able to attach field gear to the exterior of a pack, then a vintage duffle bag is probably better for you. 

On the flipside, if you prefer the modern aesthetic and want the flexibility to be able to expand the exterior of the pack with field gear and other attachments and accessories, a MOLLE duffle bag or backpack is probably a better bet. 

Explore Military Duffle Bags, Vintage Field Gear, MOLLE Backpacks and More

We carry MOLLE backpacks, vintage military duffle bags and more here, so regardless of which you prefer, we have you covered. 

Take a closer look at our collection and get in touch with us directly if you have any questions about anything we sell.

We can also help if you are looking for something specific or would like a personalized recommendation. 

Get in touch with us if you have any questions and we will be more than happy to help.

Of course, function is more important than form, and that is tied to what you pack in the bag. Here are 27 essentials.

• A knife. We won’t beat a dead horse here. There is a reason that a knife is considered by most to be the single most important EDC essential of all. It can do the job of many tools and no other can do everything a knife can. 
• A saw. Saws are better at making crossgrain cuts in wood than knives are and can be useful for constructing camp furniture. 
• A pack ax. Your vintage military duffle bag should have space for a small pack ax, and if not, bring along a small hatchet or a tomahawk.
• Sunglasses aren’t just about comfort. They protect your eyes from glare, dust, smoke, and more, in addition to UV light. 
• A bandana or shemagh scarf. A bandana or a shemagh scarf can be repurposed into tons of other things, like baskets, slings, water filters, pillows, and much more. If you need more convincing, see our previous post, Why Your Bug Out Bag Should Contain a Shemagh Scarf. 
• Duct tape. Duct tape has many uses, making it indispensable in a bug out bag. 
• Like duct tape, vaseline is also highly useful, and it has a lot of first aid uses, too. 

Matches, lighters, and fire starters. One is none and two is one. Do not just carry a single lighter or some matches. Carry several of both. Ferrocerium fire starters are also great as redundant backups because they can be used over and over again, thousands of times. Plus they are windproof and effective in most conditions.

• A pen and notepad. If it’s worth remembering, it’s worth writing down, or so they say. Get a few pens or pencils and several notepads or some spare paper. If you are serious about it, there are waterproof notepads you can get, too, like those from Field Notes or Rite in the Rain. 
• A flashlight. Flashlights are right up there with knives when it comes to highly versatile EDC essentials. Frankly your bug out bag should not just have one, but several. 
• Double A and triple A represent a nice place to start but you should carry any batteries necessary for what you carry. 
• A power bank. These are useful for charging flashlights with rechargeable batteries as well as phones, laptops and other small electronic devices. 
• A solar charger. A solar charger power bank is a good backup to a standard power bank and useful for when you are really off the grid. 
• A crank/solar radio. This is another redundant backup and one that can keep you informed as well. 
• Water’s inclusion here should be self explanatory. 
• A water filter, like a life straw. Personal water filters can help you get access to relatively safe water when you don’t have the ability to construct a still or boil water. 
• A canteen. If you have the option, get an aluminum canteen, because it will give you the flexibility to directly heat it if you ever need to. 
• Dry goods/snacks. High-calorie dry goods like nuts and crackers are a good option for trail food that can sustain you while you’re out there. 
• A portable stove. Get one of those stoves that’s designed to burn twigs rather than butane or propane, because if you run out of packaged fuel, you won’t be having much fun. 
• A small mess kit. Something like this is necessary for cooking meals. You don’t need much more than a small steel or aluminum pot. 
• If you get a military duffle bag, a vintage model won’t have all the same attachment points as a MOLLE system, but carabiners are still very valuable for attaching accessories to a pack. 
• Spare cash. A few spare dollars can be invaluable in a bind and will be accepted as currency when other methods of payment are not operable. 
• A compass. A compass will get you oriented when nothing else will, as long as you know how to use it. 
• Gloves are a necessity not just for keeping your hands warm in the cold, but for protecting your hands during manual labor. 
• A blanket. Get a wool blanket, which will retain its thermal insulation in the cold. An emergency survival blanket might also be worth packing. 
• Extra layers. Like water, this should be self explanatory. 
• First aid essentials. You’ll want topical disinfectant, gauze, a variety of bandages, medical tape, tweezers, nitrile gloves, and some OTC medication, too. 

Here for a Military Duffle Bag? Vintage Might Be the Move 

Ready to pack your bug out bag but don’t have the bag yet? Take a look through our collection of vintage military duffle bags to see what appeals to you, and make sure you get in touch with us if you have any questions before buying.

You should know how to properly care for them so they last longer. You’ll have to replace your cargo camo shorts less frequently as a result.

This short post will cover some of the main materials commonly used in camo cargo shorts, which will determine how to care for them properly. Here’s what you should know. 

Camo Cargo Shorts: Materials

Probably the most common material from which camo cargo shorts are made is a heavy duty cotton twill. Cotton twill boasts a relatively dense, tight weave, making it wear resistant. Denim and canvas, which are also made from cotton, are also commonly used.

One of the main advantages of cotton is that it is lightweight, soft and comfortable. People with sensitive skin often prefer cotton clothing because it is hypo-allergenic and doesn’t irritate the skin.

Cotton is also breathable, which makes it an excellent material for wearing in hot conditions. This makes cotton a prime choice for wear in the summer, as cotton can keep the wearer cool even when conditions are warm and muggy. 

Cotton is often blended with other fibers to form what is known as “cotton ripstop” material. This weave is woven in such a way that, while it can be punctured, tears in the fabric don’t travel, and the fabric doesn’t unravel, hence the name. 

Blends are also popular. Cotton is often blended with polyester or nylon. Blending cotton with polyester confers most of the benefits of cotton already mentioned and gives the fabric a certain degree of wrinkle resistance. It can also make the fabric more flexible and longer lasting. 

The same goes for nylon. Nylon is a very tough, abrasion resistant material and nylon-cotton, or “nyco” blends are tough and resilient. 

Occasionally a little bit of spandex is mixed into the fabric to make it more flexible and to give it a bit of stretch. Some people find that this makes the fabric more comfortable and form-fitting.

Some camo cargo shorts may also be made entirely from synthetics such as nylon or polyester. While these materials can be cost-effective and are highly durable, many people find that they are not as comfortable as all-cotton shorts. They’re also not as good in the heat as cotton is.

Some modern camo cargo shorts are also made with materials such as Tencel that are made from bamboo fibers. These are lightweight and breathable, just like cotton, which makes them suitable in the heat since they are breathable. Like cotton, textiles made from bamboo are also highly sustainable. 

These are just a few of the materials that are commonly used to make cargo camo shorts, but they are among the most common. For your basic purposes, some of the best of them are cotton or cotton ripstop blends which offer a good balance between comfort and durability. 

Camo Cargo Shorts: Care

Caring for camo cargo shorts isn’t rocket science, but you still want to do it properly to ensure two things: one, that the camo pattern doesn’t fade, and two, that you don’t damage any aspect  of your pants. 

First things first, not all stains require the shorts to be washed. Some stains can be spot-treated with an appropriate product to remove the stain. Doing so promptly can help prevent stains from setting into your cargo camo shorts.

When you are going to wash your pants, first unzip any zippers and undo any buttons. This will help eliminate any pressure points on the shorts and will also ensure that all pockets are opened and will therefore be properly cleaned. 

Then, before you wash your pants, turn them inside out. This will help ensure that the outer face of the fabric is protected and will help prevent the pattern from washing out. 

Select like colors for washing with your camo cargo shorts. Go with other clothes that either are also camo or at least use the same basic color palette as the camo pattern in question. 

As for what detergent or cycle to use, follow the care instructions on the tag on your cargo camo shorts. Once your pants are clean, either tumble dry them low (you don’t want them to shrink) or else hang them in a cool, dry place to air-dry. This is gentler on the fabric and therefore better for it. 

This basic care guide should help ensure that your camo cargo shorts are properly cleaned and maintained, giving them a longer lifespan.

Here for a New Pair of Cargo Shorts? 

Time to replace an old pair of camo cargo shorts? Shop our collection first. We carry a wide variety of shorts (as well as camo t-shirts) and other clothing and accessories. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, get in touch with us and we’ll be more than happy to help.

But we should respect function over form, so forget the cool factor for a minute. Here are 30 things you should pack in your duffle bag so you’re as prepared as you can be for the widest range of unforeseen circumstances.

1.  Knife

This is the most basic of all prepper supplies and there is a good reason that a knife is item number one on most EDC loadouts.

2.  Multi tool

A multi tool will cover your other bases. It should have some basic functions like pliers, scissors, saws, files, bit drivers, and other basics.

3.  A pry tool

You never know when you might need to open a can or pry something else up, and you don’t want to use the point of your knife.

4.  Flashlight

This is another indispensable item on most EDC loadouts. A light with several functions and a good IP rating will serve you best, all things considered.

5.  Spare batteries

You’ll want spare batteries, not just for your flashlight, but for any other electronic devices you bring along.

6.  A lighter

A lighter is not just useful for lighting fires, but can be used to light candles and for other sundry applications. It’s best to carry more than one.

7. Fire starters

In addition to a lighter, you should carry other fire starters such as matches and ferro rods, which will offer you thousands of uses before they need to be replaced, and which can be effective at getting a fire started even in adverse conditions.

8. A pen and notepad

We say if it’s worth remembering it’s worth writing down. Keep a pen with you along with a notepad for that reason. There are some notepads you can get that are waterproof as well.

9. Chargers and charging blocks

You’ll have your phone with you, and you may have other electronics like a laptop or headphones. Bring along a charger for each of these as well as a charging block so you are always prepared.

10. Power banks

A charger is good but not much use if you don’t have access to a power source. Bring along at least one fully-charged power bank, preferably of 10,000mAh or higher (a 5000mAh charger will barely get you a single iPhone charge).

11. A watch

You have a clock on your phone but two is one and one is none. Bring a spare.

12. A compass

Hopefully you never need to pull your compass out, but if you do, it can help orient you without the need for an external power source.

13. A hat

Even if you don’t wear hats routinely, it’s better to have one and not need it than to wish you had it and the opposite to be true.

14. Sunglasses

Sunglasses can protect you from glare in the summer and also offer a modicum of protection to your eyes otherwise.

15. Gloves

Gloves can protect your hands from injury when you are working manually and will also protect you against cold temperatures.

16. A bandana or shemagh scarf

Bandanas (or just a shemagh scarf) have a ton of practical uses. For more information, see our previous post, Why Your Bug-Out Bag Should Contain a Shemagh Scarf.

17. Cordage

Paracord is a good option, but either way, cordage has innumerable survival uses, from constructing shelters to improvising bootlaces.

18. A wool blanket

Your vintage military duffle bag should have room for a wool blanket, which will maintain its thermal insulation even if it gets wet.

19. Vaseline

Vaseline, like cordage, has a ton of different uses, ranging from soothing minor chafing to serving as a general purpose lubricant.

20. Duct tape

Our notes for vaseline are effectively the same here. Duct tape has tons of uses. Carry it.

21. Salt

The two best uses for salt are as a topical disinfectant and for seasoning. Both make it valuable to pack just a bit in your duffle.

22. Basic first aid essentials

Bandages, topical disinfectant, sunscreen, itch relief, bug repellent, and sterile wipes and gauze are a good place to start. Some over the counter painkillers and other medications may also prove valuable.

23. Basic toiletries

A toothbrush and toothpaste, some toilet paper, and other basic toiletries will serve you well in your bug out bag.

24. A sewing kit

Some needles and thread are all you should need and these will help you fix up a tear if you ever have to deal with one.

25. Medical or athletic tape

Both medical and athletic tape have many uses and should find a place in your duffle bag.

26. A collapsible/portable stove

There are portable stoves you can get that fold down to the size of a deck of cards and which can burn sticks, twigs and whatever else you can find.

27. An emergency radio

An emergency radio will not just provide you with a lifeline if the power goes out, and with entertainment, but some have cranks or small solar panels that can be used to store power as a bank.

28. Some water and imperishable foods

This should go without saying but you should have some water and dry goods with you. In this category you should also have some water treatment tablets or else something like a lifestraw.

29. Some cash

It’s always good to have a little cash on you, along with some necessary forms of ID.

30. Diversions

Lastly, you should always have at least a small diversion in your vintage military duffle. A pack of cards or a folding checkers or chess board will offer you endless opportunities for recreation.

Here for a Military Duffle Bag? Vintage Is the Way to Go

If you’re thinking about getting a military duffle bag, vintage is a good option because it is classic and might be able to save you money.

We can help with that, and we have prepper supplies you can use to stock the bag. Explore options here and get in touch with us if you have any questions.

Even so, every once in a while it can benefit you to try something new. If you’ve always carried your EDC blade in a pocket in its sheath, or carried it tip-down, it might be time for you to carry it according to a different discipline.

You never know, you might even like it better. Here are 4 ways to carry your fixed blade EDC on your utility belt, along with their relative virtues.

Tip-Down

We’ll cover this one first since, not only are most sheaths designed to carry in this manner, but because it’s what most people practice anyway.

Tip down carry is just what it sounds like; you wear your sheath on your utility belt so that the knife rides with its tip down, usually with the edge facing the rear of the user.

There are numerous benefits of tip-down carry on the dominant side. One is that it keeps the knife handle more or less right where your dominant will fall when it is at rest at your side.

Another is that it is easy to access the knife, even if you are lying on the ground on your stomach, or if your back is flat against a wall.

One drawback is that this method is not particularly comfortable with knives that have longer blades, as the sheath will extend down the side of your leg and, when you sit, may get in the way.

Tip-Up

Tip-up carry is just like tip-down carry but reversed; in tip-down carry, the knife is oriented so that the handle points down and the blade points up.

This is a relatively uncommon carry discipline, but it is effective with small knives, especially those that have good friction-fitting sheaths.

Some find it more intuitive to draw the knife down rather than up, although in fairness it can make it a little bit harder to re-sheath the knife.

It is also not practical for knives with larger blades, but again it can be highly practical for knives that have smaller blades.

Dangle Carry

Dangle carry is a carry practiced, usually on knives with larger blades, and usually with a leather sheath.

In dangle carry, there is a belt loop connected to a leather sheath, typically via a D-ring. This enables the sheath to dangle freely of its connection with your utility belt, hence the name.

The reason this is so effective for knives with larger blades is because the knife is allowed not just to rotate, but to move freely. This keeps the blade from rigidly getting in the way when you bend over or sit down.

Many also prefer dangle carry simply because it is more comfortable. It should, however, in fairness, be noted that it usually takes two hands to draw and re-sheath the knife, as you cannot use the resistance of the sheath alone to draw, at least in most cases.

All the same, this is a highly popular carry method that you should try at least once if you never have before.

Scout Carry

Scout carry is a popular carry discipline and one that’s very unique because, even though it involves a belt, it’s very different from typical belt carry.

In scout carry, the knife is carried with the edge down at the small of the back, and the handle facing the user’s dominant side.

For a right-handed user, therefore, the knife would be carried on the utility belt against the small of the back, with the edge down, the handle to the right, and the tip facing left.

This carry method is good for several reasons. One is that it accommodates a knife with a larger blade. The knife also won’t get in the way when you side down. It is also very discreet, and you can carry it without printing.

There are however two drawbacks to this carry method. One is that it is tough to draw the knife if you are situated with your back against an obstacle. Another is that some find re-sheathing to be a bit difficult.

This is a really unique carry method that you should try at least once if you never have before; you might like the relative benefits it offers.

Load Up Your Utility Belt and Try a New Carry Method Today

Here to load out your utility belt with the essentials? Whether you’re here for a new knife sheath or need a few spare mag pouches, check out our collection and get in touch with us if you have any questions before you buy.

They’re often outdoors when they’re in the field, and that means long hours exposed to the elements, in addition to the other grueling aspects of whatever line of work is in play.

Given this year’s record cold temperatures, some of the coldest we’ve seen in years, you might be wondering how you can stay warmer when you’re out there, especially if your line of work is one of the professions listed above.

Fortunately, staying warm on the job site is not rocket science, and we know a thing or two about it. That vintage Vietnam jacket you have just might not offer enough insulation, so here’s your guide on staying warm when working outdoors in extreme cold.

Natural vs. Synthetic Materials

The truth is that there are both high performance synthetics and natural materials that can keep you warm in the cold, but as a general rule, the best insulators are those natural ones that are well-adapted to the cold.

Avoid cotton. If it gets wet, it will suck the heat right out of you, literally freezing you in the process. This is why some outdoorsmen say cotton kills.

But, both wool and down are excellent natural insulators, as good or better than any synthetic. Down is lightweight and very warm, the problem is that it loses its insulative efficiency when it gets wet.

Wool is heavier and bulkier, but no less insulative than down, and it’s a lot more durable. Moreover, felted wool can be entirely waterproof, and even if wool gets wet, it maintains most of its thermal insulative properties.

It’s in the Layers

Keeping warm in the cold on a jobsite mostly comes down to how wisely you layer, not how thick of a single layer you can wear.

Start with your baselayer, which should be a thin, wicking layer of a warm material such as wool or a performance synthetic. This baselayer will help keep you dry and wick moisture away from your skin.

Next should come your midlayer, which is where most of your insulation will come from. This should be your warmest layer.

Lastly, you will want a shell that will afford not only additional insulation, but protection against the other elements. The best outer layers should be both windproof and waterproof.

Covering Your Extremities

If it’s truly cold outside, 20 or 30 degrees or more below freezing, you should keep your extremities covered at all times. This includes not just your hands, but your head, ears and neck as well.

A good, insulated hat, made of wool or lined with fur, is best. You’ll also want a wool scarf to keep the cold off your neck and away from your core, and earmuffs too.

By the way, mittens are better than gloves because they keep your fingers next to each other. Unless you need the dexterity of each individual finger, get a good pair of wool mittens instead of gloves.

Don’t Skimp on the Shell

Your outermost covering, which is known as your shell, is not an area to compromise, even if you have a really good baselayer and midlayer.

You’ll want a tough shell made of some performance synthetic, or of felted wool or a dense woven textile like cotton duck, and treated with a waterproof coating to keep you dry in inclement conditions. Also, a windproof shell is a good idea, too, because windchill makes things even worse when temperatures are already low.

Keep Moving

Staying warm on the jobsite, especially in extreme cold, is not just about what you wear, but about what you’re doing. Standing around is a great way to freeze.

Keep busy with whatever it is you’re working on, and move around as much as possible. Even light activity can keep you warm in very cold temperatures, even when you aren’t well insulated. If you are, staying warm will be much easier.

Stay Hydrated

A lot of people don’t realize how easy it is to get dehydrated in the cold, but this will exacerbate hypothermia if you let it. With every breath you lose water, and in some conditions, worse in the cold than in the heat, especially if the air is dry. Make sure you have enough water with you and take sips as needed throughout the day.

Bring Along Handwarmers

One note on something we previously recommended, that mittens are better than gloves. One other thing about mittens is that it’s easier to fit handwarmers in them. Take along some handwarmers and use them if needed, as they will help keep your hands more comfortable as you work.

Take Advantage of the Sun

Lastly, if it’s a sunny day, take advantage of the sun while you have it. Even at our latitude, in cold weather, the sun is surprisingly warm even in the winter months. You can get a lot of warmth from the sun especially if there is no windchill, even if the day is really cold.

Explore Cold-Weather Gear and More Here

Save the vintage Vietnam jacket for spring. Explore our collection of cold weather work gear, including Polar Fleece outdoor clothing and extreme cold weather insulated coveralls, which are great because there’s no gap between your jacket and pants, which you’ll wear underneath, so no cold air can get in.

Explore our collection, and make sure you check out our surplus gear as well. There’s plenty of affordable, cold-weather military gear we carry here, even if a vintage Vietnam jacket is better suited for other times of the year.

This short post will break down the origins and value of both ALICE packs and MOLLE backpacks (and other systems).

ALICE Packs

ALICE is an acronym for All-purpose Lightweight Individual Carrying Equipment, designed as a modular solution for carrying a variety of field gear, and ALICE packs were officially adopted in 1973.

The ALICE pack itself consists of a frame with a pack and compartments that can be customized as desired; additionally packs and pouches can be added to the system in order to expand the platform.

There’s one main large compartment that has a flap closure, and several other compartments/packs that can be added onto the system. All in all, it offers a relatively modular solution for carrying gear in the field.

While the system is often referred to simply as an ALICE pack, it can be expanded with a belt that contains a canteen cover as well as a carrier for an entrenching tool, along with other pouches.

For some, the ALICE pack and its associated system are tied to Vietnam era equipment in the popular conception, and the system has served reliably for many years in the hands of military operators and outdoorsmen around the country and the world.

With that said, there are modern alternatives, specifically in the form of MOLLE systems, that offer a more versatile and flexible footprint.

MOLLE Backpacks

MOLLE systems, which stands for Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment, are much newer than ALICE packs, and were adopted officially in 1997.

MOLLE backpacks vary in size, shape and footprint, but despite their variability, are immediately recognizable and distinguishable from ALICE packs, as a result of the straps and webbing that exist on the outside (and sometimes the inside) of the pack.

MOLLE systems consist of a series of webbed straps that are appended to the outside of the back, and to which compatible MOLLE accessories, like MOLLE pouches, can easily be attached via snap closures or velcro straps. While not specifically designed for MOLLE systems, carabiners, split rings, D-rings, and other accessories are easily and readily compatible with MOLLE backpacks.

The webbing actually has a name, and though it’s commonly referred to as “MOLLE webbing” the correct name is PALS webbing, which stands for Pouch Attachment Ladder System. It’s commonly from repeated rows of ballistic nylon straps with reinforced stitching to which it’s easy to attach MOLLE accessories in the manner already described.

Advantages of MOLLE Systems

Because of how MOLLE backpacks enable easy expandability, they offer numerous potential advantages over ALICE packs.

The versatility of a MOLLE system, which should be apparent at the outset, is likely the biggest advantage. Even a very small MOLLE pack can be considerably expanded, and made several times larger and more voluminous, by attaching other MOLLE pouches and accessories to it. In such a manner, MOLLE systems are truly the most modular systems available at the current time.

MOLLE accessories, which can be easily attached to the PALS webbing of MOLLE backpacks, are also widely accessible and easy to attach to the main pack. These accessories include but are not limited to MOLLE pouches, mag pouches, dump pouches, canteen covers, tool covers and holsters, first aid kits, and much more.

Many examples of field gear and other items can also be rendered compatible with MOLLE backpacks with little to no modification. For example, anything with a pocket clip, such as a pen, a flashlight, or a pocket knife, can easily be added to one of the MOLLE slots on a backpack. Likewise, anything that can be attached with a split ring, a D-ring or a carabiner can also be added effortlessly to a MOLLE pack.

Because the nature of MOLLE backpacks necessitates that the system be expanded externally, this also streamlines access. Rather than necessarily storing magazines, flashlights and other accessories internally, they can be more easily organized, identified and retrieved when they are clipped or strapped to the PALS webbing of a MOLLE system.

Additionally, many knife and tool sheaths, especially Kydex sheaths which are perforated around their margins, can also be rigged for MOLLE compatibility with a little bit of paracord, or simply by adding a carabiner to them.

Because there is ultimately no limit to how you can configure and expand a MOLLE system, like a backpack or a duffle, they’re far more customizable than ALICE packs. And, on top of that, they still offer you the flexibility to carry gear in the internal compartments, where you desire to do so. Some MOLLE backpacks also offer plenty of internal storage that’s well divided for easy organization and access, not entirely dissimilar to an ALICE pack, too.

So, to recap that, some of the high-level advantages of MOLLE packs are that:

• They are endlessly expandable and configurable.
• There are many MOLLE pouches and accessories compatible with them.
• Anything that can be attached via a D-ring, split ring or carabiner, or a pocket clip, can be attached to a MOLLE system.
• Accessories that are not expressly MOLLE compatible can be rendered MOLLE compatible with a little bit of cordage, such as paracord.
• Many knife and tool sheaths are MOLLE compatible.
• Organizing and storing gear on the outside of the pack, as opposed to the inside, improves identification and access.
• Excess MOLLE pouches and accessories can be removed as needed.
• You still have the flexibility to store field gear inside the pack.
• Because you can choose what to add and where to add it, MOLLE systems are superior with respect to weight distribution.

Of course, while there are many advantages of MOLLE backpacks, there is still a place for ALICE packs, and it ultimately all comes down to what works for you, and what you prefer, anyway.

That being said, we carry both ALICE packs and MOLLE systems here. Whichever you’re looking for, we have you covered.

Explore MOLLE Packs, MOLLE Accessories, and More Here

Whether you’re here for a new ALICE pack, a new MOLLE backpack, or are just looking for MOLLE accessories, we carry a ton. Take a look through our collection and get in touch with us if you have any questions.

That being said, the next time you’re in the market for a jacket, consider getting a vintage Vietnam jacket or any other military surplus jacket or coat instead of something new. In this particular instance, here are a few good reasons why.

Impeccable Style

Arguably the best reason, not just to add a vintage Vietnam jacket to your wardrobe, but actually to wear it, is that you can’t imitate or duplicate the style. There’s something missing from reproductions that’s captured by military surplus, and on top of that, the plain austerity of vintage field gear is something that’s hard to match in new production clothing.

In other words, there’s a style that’s communicated by vintage field shirts and jackets, not just those from the Vietnam era, that’s hard to replicate nowadays.

Comfort

The clothing worn in the field by our troops in Vietnam was not designed for style but for protection, and for comfort. First and foremost, field shirts and jackets tend to be roomy and comfortable, in the case of clothing issued to troops in Vietnam, particularly in hot, wet weather.

Modern M-65 field shirts and jackets are often made from durable yet comfortable ripstop cotton blends and are comfortable worn on their own or layered in cooler weather. Either way, they’re not restrictive, tend to be highly breathable, and overall fairly comfortable in a wide range of different conditions.

Functionality

Vintage Vietnam jackets aren’t just practical for cultivating an aesthetic of ruggedness commonly found in alternative streetwear. Since they were designed to perform in active combat zones, they are also highly functional.

As light jackets for use in warm to cool weather, they are highly comfortable and practical, but they also tend to be roomy enough to allow you to add a few layers underneath for when the weather is colder than usual.

Beyond that, these jackets are commonly colored OD green or sport camouflage patterns, both of which are highly practical in the field when some degree of concealment is necessary. This makes these jackets useful for airsoft, paintball, reenactment, and of course, for hunting.

Plus, given their comfort, utility, general durability, versatility, and adequate storage, there are numerous use cases for these types of shirts and jackets.

Storage

One of the great things about the vintage Vietnam jackets we offer here is that they offer so much storage. One thing you don’t want in a field shirt or jacket is a design that’s devoid of places to store your personal effects, and fortunately these are no exception to that maxim.

Depending on the jacket or shirt, or on the design it is trying to replicate, normally you’ll get somewhere around 4 pockets on one of these, sometimes more. Most are made with 2 breast pockets and many also sport 2 additional waist pockets.

The best part is that these are often buttoned pockets, which adds a little security onto the fact that there’s some extra storage to begin with.

Durability

Many vintage Vietnam jackets are made from a durable, ripstop cotton fabric or cotton blend. While there are certainly tougher, more durable, more abrasion resistant fabrics out there, these are far from bad, and do resist tears, helping to prevent them from traveling in the fabric.

Either way, there are some really tough Vietnam jackets and shirts on our website that will hang with you through some seriously adverse conditions and which will still continue to perform, season after season.

Affordability

Lastly, but definitely not least, we have the fact that many pieces of vintage field gear and military surplus are shockingly affordable, especially when contrasted with new production equivalents, or the closest thing to.

The irony is that rarely does new production clothing match the quality and durability of the old stuff, so when you end up paying more for new, you’re actually getting less value. To us, that just doesn’t make any sense.

Either buy original vintage gear or get a reproduction that’s designed to capture everything about the old stuff that made it great in the first place. You’ll get more for your money when you do it that way.

Go Beyond Vintage Vietnam Jackets

Vintage Vietnam jackets only constitute a small cross section of the military surplus gear and other reproduction field gear and clothing and outerwear that we sell here. Take a closer look through our collections to get familiar with what we offer and refresh your outdoor wardrobe today.

It goes back to 1981, which means it’s actually not even as old as Tiger Stripe camo, but all the same, it is a very popular vintage pattern that produces a similar effect.

This pattern is not just appealing from a stylistic perspective, though. It’s also a highly effective camouflage pattern, at least in situations in which it is well-equipped to help conceal you.

Let’s take a closer look at what makes it such an effective pattern, and what you can do with a vintage camo shirt.

Behind the Efficacy of US Woodland

US Woodland consists of a variety of four-color markings of irregular border; green, brown, black and beige (or sand) are the four colors that constitute the classic US Woodland pattern.

Unlike other modern camouflage patterns, this one doesn’t consist of conventional “macros” and “micros,”; rather, it’s just an assembly of irregular disruptive markings of roughly the same size, though not the same shape.

US Woodland is similar to, and in fact based partly off, the ERDL pattern that was used in the Vietnam War. However, ERDL was more predominantly green and also consisted of smaller elements.

US Woodland made some significant changes to ERDL; chiefly, the colors were adjusted to provide for higher disruptive contrast, and the markings were increased in size to make it harder to detect the pattern at closer ranges.

This camouflage pattern also exhibits a fair degree of shadow elimination, pattern disruption, and, critically, color matching to temperate forests - hence the name.

For what it’s worth, US Woodland can be a highly effective pattern in temperate woodlands, and the truth is that it can be fairly effective in other wooded areas, too.

The interesting thing about this pattern is despite the fact that it looks like a fairly dated, simple, and low-tech pattern, and despite the fact that it utterly lacks the super-realistic details of some modern patterns like Kryptek and Realtree patterns, it is very effective in environments to which it is well-suited.

That being said, it’s not particularly effective in the snow, in dry scrub, or in desert environments. But what it does, it does very well.

Behind the Appeal of US Woodland

In addition to the fact that US Woodland is a fairly effective camouflage pattern in wooded areas, it also possesses a unique appeal that not a lot of other camouflage patterns do.

It’s popular among those that like street-inspired fashion as well as militaria, and it has a decidedly vintage look and feel, hence the whole topic of this article.

It also pairs better with other clothing than most other types of camouflage. For instance, if you try to wear Realtree Edge on the regular, you’ll either look like you’re overdoing it or you just came in from hunting. US Woodland is more forgiving and more amenable, and far more versatile.

So, on that note, let’s take a closer look at some ways you can work a camo shirt’s vintage pattern into your rotation, especially if it is US Woodland.

How to Pair a US Woodland Camo Shirt

There are lots of ways to style with a camo shirt, especially a vintage cam shirt. Here are some high-level notes:

• Be conscious of compatible colors. US Woodland, because of its four-color pattern scheme, works pretty well with forest green, black, brown, and sand. For whatever reason, US Woodland also tends to pair well with white, even though it doesn’t feature any white itself. Consider choosing the other elements of your outfit according to this advice.
  
  
• Don’t overdo the camouflage. If you’re wearing a camouflage shirt, it’s a generally good idea to eschew camouflage elsewhere in your ensemble. Too much will really overdo it and you’ll look like you should be playing paintball or something rather than just dressing to look good. A shirt, or a jacket, or pants in this pattern will look good, but not all three.
  
  
• Layer over the shirt. A camo shirt on its own might look just fine, but one thing you can do is layer over it. Get a jacket, denim or canvas work great here, and pair that with the shirt. The cool thing here is that the jacket will cover some of the noise of camo so it isn’t overwhelming, which can happen if you wear it openly.
  
  
• Other patterns will tend to clash with the camo. It’s important to recognize that many other patterns will clash with US Woodland pretty hard. You’re going to want to avoid pairing other clothing with your US Woodland camo shirt. This also goes for graphics. A simple brand or logo won’t be that big of a deal, but avoid other graphic clothing. For instance, if you get a camo jacket, don’t wear a graphic tee under that. It probably won’t look good.
  
  
• Pair it with a good pair of combat boots. Lastly, US Woodland camo goes with a solid pair of combat boots or jungle boots like bread and butter. So it may be true that this pattern wasn’t developed till after the Vietnam War, so technically pairing Vietnam-era jungle boots with US Woodland is somewhat anachronistic. But who cares? They look so good together. And, if it’s that big of a deal to you, get a good pair of logger boots or shiny leather work boots and wear them instead. They’ll also compliment this pattern perfectly.

Here for a Camo Shirt? Vintage Might Be the Answer

If you’re looking for a camo shirt, vintage is a great option, and we carry a whole lot for you to check out. To get some ideas for inspiration, check out that previous link and then get in touch with us if you’re looking for something that you don’t see listed. We’ll help you find what you need, even if you just have a few questions about styling with camo.

Beyond that, you’re not alone if you’ve noticed that the quality of new production merchandise has gone down the tubes in recent years - and prices have gone up.

If that isn’t reason enough to want things that stand to a higher level of quality, even if they aren’t technically new, nothing will convince you.

To be more specific, if you’re in the market for a military duffle bag, vintage is like your best bet.

Yes, new production military surplus is still great, but there is still a time and a place for vintage field gear, specifically duffle bags. Here are just a few arguments in favor.

High-Quality Materials

First things first, as stated, newer things often just can’t hold a candle to what was produced yesteryear. There is a place for ballistic nylon and all that synthetic stuff that military duffles are made of nowadays, but can you really take over tough cotton canvas so easily?

We think not, and that’s just what a lot of military vintage duffle bags are made with. The fabric may be weak in wet environments, but it is extraordinarily tough (probably tougher than nylon, honestly) and if you’re so worried about water, you can wax it, which makes it even tougher than nails.

Plus, if you’re into military duffle bags, vintage ones are usually made with really tough, heavy straps and hardware that modern milsurp rarely outperforms. It’s possible but you know you’re getting quality with the old stuff.

Time-Tested Designs

If you’re going to buy field gear, why not put your money into models and designs that you know have actually performed - in the field, not just on paper or in a production facility, or during trials.

Vintage military duffle bags may be plain, but they’re tough, and you know that, in some cases, these designs mirror those that were actually carried by soldiers all over the world, sometimes perhaps even in active combat zones.

What better testament to enduring quality is there than that?

Plenty of Room, Well Organized

This is one area where, perhaps (keyword) modern military surplus has the edge, but ultimately it all comes down to what you’re looking for.

MOLLE systems are designed to be modular and expandable, and in some cases, to store essential gear outside of the main compartments of the bag.

In vintage military duffle bags, organization mostly occurs within the bag, but all the same, despite the fact that it might take marginally more time to access your gear, they are very secure and still well-organized.

You Can’t Beat the Aesthetic

Some people love modern military gear - others love a vintage look. For better or for worse, you can’t duplicate the image of authentic, vintage military gear. It has a singular look. If it’s what appeals to you, no modern field gear is going to cut it.

The Price Is Often Very Attractive

Just like with other official military gear and military surplus, the price of vintage field gear is often very low and therefore commensurately attractive, with the exception of fringe cases involving very rare, in-demand items and collectibles.

For run of the mill vintage duffle bags, you can often save quite a bit when you compare them to new field gear, which can actually be surprisingly expensive.

Uses for Military Duffle Bags (Vintage Editions)

On top of all else mentioned here, there are still a number of utilitarian applications for vintage military duffle bags, including but not limited to:

• Creating bug-out bags or trunk bags
• Organizing field gear
• Camping and hunting
• Travel
• Organizing loose items around your home
• Disaster preparedness

And much more - this list is far from complete.

Why Milsurp?

Just as there are many reasons to invest in vintage military gear, there are plenty of good reasons to buy military surplus, whether it’s relatively recent or not. Here are some of the best of them:

• Low cost
• High durability
• Proven quality
• Proven and tested designs
• Rugged appeal and authenticity
• It’s the only way to get some items
• Sometimes you stumble across a gem
• Wide availability
• There’s milsurp for a wide range of needs

As with the reasons to invest in vintage military gear, this list is just cursory; it is not complete.

Shop Military Duffle Bags, Field Gear and Other Military Surplus Here

In the market for a new duffle bag? Maybe it shouldn’t be new, but vintage. Shop our full collection here, and if you are looking for something specific or have questions about product specifications, get in touch with us and we would be more than happy to help.

That said, here are some of the most indispensable pieces of EDC gear, from a high level. Start here, carry these, and expand your loadout as experience teaches.

A Knife

A knife is, hands down, the most important piece of EDC gear conceivable, not just on this list but on any that pretends to offer the same insights.

Effectively the most fundamental of all tools and an iteration of one of the six simple machines (the wedge), there is little you can’t do with a knife, even though there might be other, more specialized tools out there. It is in its generality that the utility of a knife shines.

Here are some things to look for in a good EDC knife:

• Fixed or folding: Fixed knives are sturdier than folders, but less convenient to carry and less discreet.
• Steel chemistry: High-carbon, low chromium steels may offer solid edge retention and toughness, but they are generally more prone to rust and corrosion than stainless alloys. The three main attributes you are looking to balance are edge retention, toughness, and corrosion-resistance. Some modern super steels, though expensive, offer a good balance of all three.
• Scale material: Wood and bone may be pretty, but they are not as durable as modern synthetics like G10, micarta, carbon fiber or metal alloys. Consider the general durability of an EDC knife’s scales as the knife is likely to be abused.
• Size: You might be surprised at how well a relatively small blade will perform. Let your preferences determine the size of knife you carry, but remember that larger knives are heavier and less discreet. Most people choose a knife with a blade length between 3 and 4 inches for EDC.
• Blade profile: A thin, swept blade will be better for skinning, carving, and detail work, whereas a stockier blade with a sheepsfoot or tanto profile will have a stouter tip that’s less likely to break. There are also blades with combination edges that are partially serrated, offering the best of both worlds.
• Carry options: Many quality pocket knives come with a pocket clip that streamlines carry.
• Lock type: If you intend to carry a pocket knife with a lock, consider the locking type. Some of the best knife locks are button, compression and crossbar locks, but others, such as collar locks, lock backs, frame locks and liner locks are also serviceable.

The knife that works best for you will depend on your needs and preferences, but just make sure your EDC loadout contains at least one.

A Multitool

A multitool is another great piece of EDC gear to carry because it might contain tools that a knife might not, and as a result of its superior specialization might offer an advantage for more complex work.

Some tools to look for in a multitool include:

• A pry bar
• Pliers
• Wire cutters or strippers
• Bit drivers
• An awl
• A hook
• Saw blade
• Bottle or can openers
• Scissors

There are other functions a multitool might fulfill but these are some good ones.

An EDC Flashlight

An EDC flashlight is another indispensable piece of EDC gear, perhaps only behind a knife in terms of utility. If you start carrying an EDC flashlight you will be surprised how often you reach for it. Here are some things to consider or look for in a flashlight.

• Durable construction: There are quality EDC flashlights made with composites, steel, aluminum, and other materials. It doesn’t matter what you choose, so long as it works for you and is durable.
• Luminous output: Look at the lumen rating; the higher, the brighter the light will be. Many quality EDC flashlights are rated to between 200 and 1000 lumens.
• Number of settings: Quality EDC flashlights don’t just offer one setting; many feature low, medium and high settings along with strobe settings or other light colors.
• Wireless charging: Some EDC flashlights offer wireless, magnetic charging, which is superior because there is no port to fail or get obstructed.
• IP rating: Quality EDC flashlights are both waterproof and dustproof; some are so waterproof they can be fully submerged and continue working.
• Pocket clip/carry options: Some EDC flashlights have a pocket clip that allows for carry in two directions, such that the clip can be attached to the bill of a cap, allowing for hands-free use, similar to a headlamp.
• A magnetic base: Some EDC flashlights feature a magnetic base that enables them to be used hands-free on ferromagnetic surfaces. This is a surprisingly valuable feature.

A Lighter

A lighter is another indispensable tool for EDC, and is needed as a light, to light candles, to light fires, and for so much more. Here are some of the things to consider before purchasing a lighter:

• Durability: as a general rule, lighters made with a metal housing will be more durable than plastic lighters that are not.
• Ignition type: Most lighters are either powered by a flint wheel or by piezo ignition. Piezo ignition is convenient but once it burns out it can’t be effectively replaced. Flint ignition systems can usually be re-flinted.
• Fuel: Most lighters use either butane or a liquid fuel. Butane is convenient, clean burning and cheap, but not effective in the cold. Liquid lighters tend to let their fuel evaporate, but they are much more reliable in the cold.
• Whether or not the lighter is refillable: Disposable lighters cannot, as a general rule, be refilled, which is wasteful. However, many types of lighters can be refilled. These are generally better for EDC.
• If the flame is adjustable or not: Some lighters have an adjustable flame. This is not absolutely necessary for an EDC lighter but it’s still a nice feature to have.

Load Up Your Camo Cargo Shorts Here

Getting ready to improve your EDC loadout? Make sure your camo cargo shorts have enough products and then shop our collection. We have everything covered here and much more.

Many of these are very versatile and their value is tied in part to that very versatility. After all, the more uses a single item or material has, the better its overall value is in the field or around the home.

Prepper supplies like knives, EDC flashlights, paraffin wax, vaseline, cotton puffs, and salt consistently top lists of most valuable, most versatile items. But there are others, too.

And one of the best of these is duct tape, which, as you are about to see, has innumerable uses.

1.  Protect and prevent blisters

Blisters form at hot spots where your skin is rubbed by footwear or clothing. Covering hot spots with blisters will protect the skin, lubricate the interface, and potentially help prevent blisters from forming. You can also tape over blisters to prevent them from bursting.

2.  Capture pests

Lay strips around your campsite or in front of the door to your home, sticky side up. The tape will trap pests and the strips can be replaced as needed. You can also lay a trap with bait, and encircle it with duct tape, which will catch any insects that crawl towards it.

3.  Fix eyewear

Got broken glasses? One quick and easy fix is simply to use a small strip of duct tape to patch up the bridge between the lenses.

4.  Fix shoes

There are tons of ways to use duct tape to fix footwear; you can use duct tape to secure a broken strap, you can use it to keep a sole attached that has started to delaminate from the shoe, and you can even use duct tape as a patch for a hole in a shoe.

5.  Emergency DIY gear repair

If it’s broken and you can’t fix it with duct tape, as the saying goes, you’re not using enough duct tape. There are a thousand and one ways to make fixes to gear in the field with it, you just need to get creative.

6.  Make gaiters

Use duct tape to tape your pant legs to the cuffs of the tops of your boots or shoes. This will not only keep pests out of your clothing, but will seal off your footwear against ingress from snow, keeping you warmer and drier.

7.  Pull out splinters

Get a piece of duct tape, fold it over, and use it to pull out small splinters that are protruding from the surface of the skin. It won’t work every time, but if you’re having trouble with tweezers the duct tape trick may get the job done.

8.  Hem your clothes

If you’re in the field and a hem drops, and you don’t have a needle and thread but you do have this invaluable prepper supply, you can likely make a fix. Just use the tape to roll up and secure the bottom hem of the clothing in question - no thread needed.

9.  Improvise cordage

Cut the duct tape into long strips, then using the reverse wrap method, twist yourself some rope from duct tape, adding in new strips as they are needed. This is one of the more useful duct tape hacks out there and can be a lifesaver if you really need cordage.

10.  Create a fabric patch

Got a hole in your clothing, or in your jacket? Just cover that up with a bit of duct tape. This tip works very well for PVC rain gear, too.

11.  Makeshift waterproof seal; patch busted pipes

You can make actual containers that are waterproof with duct tape, like buckets, by using a mold and forming the duct tape around it. You can also patch busted pipes using this method, at least in the short term.

12.  Make a foraging pouch

Need to gather some berries or mushrooms, but don’t have a basket or a pouch? Weave or form one with duct tape and get on your way.

13. Improvise a fire starter

Duct tape is surprisingly flammable. Just tear off a small strip, twist it into a wick and light it up - it’s a solid tinder for getting a fire going when you need it.

14.  Mark trails

Hi-viz duct tape is great for marking trails so you can find your way, blaze trails, or just so you don’t get lost.

15.  Strengthen tool handles

Over time, wooden tool handles will split, crack, and fail, even when you take proper care of them. Give them a good duct tape wrap and it will help prevent the wood fibers from separating, giving the tool handle a longer lifespan.

Explore This and Other Prepper Supplies Here

These 15 uses for duct tape as a prepper supply are only the tip of the iceberg - so you shouldn’t be surprised that we sell duct tape here, among so many other survival essentials. Shop our full collection and get in touch with us if you have any questions.

The next time they come back from a foray out in the mud, sit them down and show them how to properly clean and condition kids’ combat boots.

It’s a good learning experience and an even better lesson in responsibility. Here’s what you need to know, and what you can pass along to them.

Get Them Dry

Before you can really clean and oil kids’ combat boots, you need to get them dry. For jungle boots, this is no issue since they’re vented and made with quick drying uppers for that very purpose.  

For leather boots that are waterlogged, get some newspapers and stuff the boots, then place them somewhere warm and dry - near, but not too close to a heat source is a good place.  

If it’s hot and dry outside, place them outside to dry. The newspaper will wick away excess moisture and help with drying, and the air circulation will help as well.  

The only thing you need to be cautious about is placing them too close to a heat source. Don’t place them too close to a furnace or fire as this will dry them out too quickly and will do more harm than good.

Cleaning the Soles  

Once the boots are dry, you will want to get any mud, dirt, sand, or other debris out of the soles. This will take a little extra elbow grease if the kids’ combat boots in question have lug soles.

There are two indispensable tools for cleaning boot soles. One is a stiff brush, and the other is a pick of some sort. Honestly, you could just use a stick that was narrow enough to fit between the soles’ lugs.

Start by brushing everything that’s loose out, then come back in with the pick and get any dried muck out of the soles. Then give the thing a once-over again with the brush and you’re good to start cleaning the uppers.

Cleaning the Uppers 

For nylon or mesh uppers, all you really need to do is use the same brush or a damp rag to wipe off the uppers. It is important to make sure that there is no dirt or other material caked onto the uppers.

If the uppers are leather, you will need to take a little extra care and attention to clean them before you condition them, as you don’t want to condition them with an underlying coating of dust or mud.  

Use a brush or a damp rag to wipe off any dust, mud or sand, then let the uppers dry. Play close attention to the tongue and the area around the welt, which are two areas which dust and mud will tend to accumulate.

In fact, it’s a good idea to unlace the boots before you start cleaning them, as this will ensure there are no recesses wherein mud and dust can hide. 

Once the uppers have been cleaned of any loose material, you can condition them.

Conditioning Leather

Leather uppers will periodically need treatment from a leather oil or conditioner in order to prevent the leather from warping or cracking.

There are lots of commercial leather conditioners you can use, although you can also mix your own with a combination of mink oil, neatsfoot oil and beeswax, in varying proportions.

Take some of this conditioner and apply it to a clean rag or sponge, then work it into the leather upper. Don’t overapply; leather is greedy and will absorb most of what you give it. In most instances, a light coating is more than adequate.

Make sure that you treat all panels of the upper, including the toe, vamp and shaft. Then make sure to get the tongue and the area around the welt. The most stressed area of most boot uppers is the area where the crease forms at the ball of the foot where the boot flexes most.  

You can apply a little more leather conditioner to this area as it is highly stressed. Also make sure to get in where the upper meets the welt, as this area will crack if not properly treated and conditioned.

Making Patches Where Necessary

Lastly, there will be times where parts of the boot become unstitched or crack, and you will need to face a serious question: do you patch the issue or just get a new pair of kids’ combat boots?  

Ultimately that depends on the overall condition of the boots, and whether or not your kid will need new boots soon anyway.  

If the boots are relatively new and otherwise in good condition, but they have started to leak because the area between the sole and the welt has been compromised, there are treatments you can apply that will restore the waterproofing of the boot.

Two good ones are Shoe Goo and Aquaseal. Both are strong compounds that are fully waterproof when appropriately applied. Simply apply in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer and allow them to cure appropriately.  

If the boots were made with a DWR coating but that coating has started to wear off, there are special treatment sprays you can buy that will restore some measure of water-repellency to the boots uppers.

Periodically re-treat any combat boots that are starting to leak a bit in order to restore the waterproof coating.

Pick Up a New Pair of Kids’ Combat Boots Here

At a certain point, in spite of your fastidious maintenance of your kids’ combat boots, you will need a new pair. Kids are tough on what they own and boots are no exception - plus the little ones grow fast too.  

If you’re in the market for a new pair of kids’ combat boots, you’re in the right place. Check out our collection of combat boots, which includes jungle boots, then get everything else you need for all sorts of outdoor sports and pursuits, all in one place.

It goes beyond not being seen; concealment encompasses keeping silent and guarding your scent to prevent being busted before you even get a chance to pull off a shot.

Here are some of the top tips to help you keep concealed in the field, regardless of your target species.

Stay Quiet

We’ll start with one that doesn’t even have to do with visual concealment. Have you ever noticed that sometimes when you come upon a fellow hunter in the woods, he’s (or she’s) more likely to speak in hushed tones?

This is to avoid spooking game and to avoid leaving a bigger footprint than needed in areas where game is pursued.

It should apply to you when you are on the ground, in your blind or in your stand. The first step to staying concealed is to stay quiet.

Don’t Move

Staying still is one of the other big chips to not getting busted before you have a chance to draw your sights on a target.

Stillness is actually more effective than pretty much any camouflage pattern could be. When you’re out there, move only when necessary. Game like turkey will bust you a long way off if you move even a hair. Don’t think they won’t see it; they will.

Stay still as much as you can, even if you don’t see any game, or there’s nothing within sight. Just because you can’t see them doesn’t mean they can’t see you, or that they aren’t watching you.

Break Up Your Outline

Concealment can be about the camouflage pattern you employ, but it is just as important to break up your outline as it is to actually blend into your background using the appropriate colors and patterns.

Specifically, this is why leafy camo patterns are so popular, as are ghillie suits. These obscure your outline and make it seem as though your form is a part of the backdrop, rather than being set against it.

It’s also the reason that duck hunters add marsh grass and reeds to their boats and blinds. It’s not just the color, but it obscures the outline of the structure using natural cover, which is all the more effective.

Cover Your Hands and Face

Exposed skin will stand out like a glowing brand in the woods and it will betray your position. The simple solution is just to wear gloves and a facemask or a wide brimmed hat.

You can also use face paint or charcoal to smudge your hands and face, covering up your “shiny” skin and breaking up your outline.

By the way, there are some game animals that will take no notice of you if you cover up your head and face, even if you are in blaze orange. Notably, squirrel hunters can take advantage of this.

For whatever reason, squirrels won’t seem to notice you if your hands and face are covered - even if you are in all-orange, as is required in some states for small game firearm hunters.

Match Your Camo Patterns

While this step is not absolutely, critically necessary in all scenarios, it will help you stay hidden, especially when you are chasing more wary targets like gamebirds. Deer might not notice a mismatch in pattern between your camo shirt and your pants and pack, but a turkey might, and so might ducks and geese.

So, take some time to make sure all your clothing is on the same wavelength, so to speak.

Use Natural Cover Wisely

Not just that you should cut and use grasses, reeds, and moss, where legal for concealment, but you should mind where you set up or place your blind.

Generally, you want an open lane in front of you and a lot of natural cover behind you. This might seem counterintuitive as it will expose you, but think of it this way: you need a shooting lane, and the cover behind you will break up your outline and create shadow that will help keep you hidden.

Of course, some cover in front of you is acceptable, but it’s usually better to have dense cover at your six.

Hide Your Gear 

So you’ve done a yeoman’s job of decking yourself, from the crown of your head to the soles of your boots, in compatible camo.

What about your pack, that has your lime-green hunting license blazing on it like a flare? Or your gun barrel, which shines in the sun like a fusion reactor?  

Mind these things too; they can also give you away. Make sure they are hidden as well as possible given the circumstances.

Keep your pack covered and hide your permits, if legal. As for bows and guns, they can often be given a little concealment boost by wrapping them in camo tape or just non-reflective tape.

Mind Your Scent Cone

For predator and deer hunters, scent control is paramount to keeping concealed. There’s nothing you can do to fully eliminate your scent, so what you need to do is control it and be aware of it.

Notably, you will throw a scent cone downwind of you. Face into the wind, but expect shots on predators to present themselves downwind as predators will usually circle downwind to see what and where you are.

Also, avoid relieving yourself in the woods if you can, as that will only further disperse your scent.

Gear Up with Camo Shirts and Other Camo Gear Here

Fall is just around the corner, and now is the time to gear up with what you need come opening day, whether you’re after deer in the early season or are a late-winter fox hunter.

Check out our collection of camo shirts, camouflage pants, and other camouflage gear for hunting to make sure you’re ready when the season opens.

Yes, you can wear camouflage pants in your day to day dress. However, it helps to understand a few pointers so that you don’t overdo it and that the ensemble you put together actually works. Here are a few things for matching other clothes to your camouflage pants.

● Don’t wear all camo

One of the worst things you can do with a pair of camouflage pants (or a jacket, for that matter) is to predicate the entire outfit on camouflage itself. This is the number one way to overdo it. Unless you’re hunting or engaged in some strategic game that requires concealment, keep your camo relegated to one or two pieces of wear.

For instance, can you get away with a camo hat and jacket, or a camo hat and pants, or maybe camo boots and pants, but don’t wear a top and bottom, even in the same pattern. It’s going to look like you’ve just come home from the blind and will look out of place everywhere except in the field.

● In fact, don’t mix camo patterns

Now that we’ve got note number one hammered out, it’s beneficial to remember not to mix camouflage patterns. If you’re wearing Realtree Edge pants, and want a camo hat, stick to that pattern. If you’re got a Krytek hat, make your boots match. Do not pair the two patterns together. This will work for hunting because it actually might further break up your outline, but for streetwear, it will look terrible - that’s a promise.

In other words, US Woodland might look great with denim or next to white or black, but it’s not going to look good when paired with Mossy Oak Obsession. Stick to one pattern with each ensemble, or to keep things even more basic, don’t wear one piece of camo clothing at one time.

● Camo and plain colors work best

Can you get away with wearing a graphic tee and camouflage pants? Sure. You could also wear camouflage pants with a patterned jacket. But should you? In both cases, probably not. Camo has a lot of movement among its macros and micros and does best when there’s no conflict from the other clothing you’re wearing. The long and short of this is that when you’re wearing camo, stick to solid colors in your other clothing - this includes your hat, footwear, and other accessories - in order to prevent a big clash of impressions.

● Camouflage pants don’t work with white-collar wear

Say you want to wear a pair of camouflage pants. Or maybe you want to wear a jacket. What you don’t want to do is wear those pants with a button down or a blazer, or the jacket with a pair of slacks. A camo jacket might work with work boots or hunting boots, but it’s not going to look good with a pair of oxfords. In other words, keep your clothing basic and blue-collar looking. Camouflage might offer a nice grunge aesthetic, but it doesn’t work with office wear.

● Military surplus gear generally works with camouflage

If you want to get a few pieces of clothing and other gear that are probably going to work well with camouflage pants, or other camouflage gear, it’s hard to go wrong with military surplus. The field gear produced for the United States military over the years, made largely from cotton canvas and ballistic nylon, in plain colors such as OD green or khaki, tends to be pretty nondescript and thereby doesn’t clash with or otherwise detract from camouflage gear.

Functional Applications for Camouflage Pants

While you can wear camouflage pants when you’re on the street, at work, or engaged in other forms of recreation, it’s important not to overlook their innate functionality. Some of the top uses for camouflage gear are among the following.

● Hunting and trapping

Arguably the most practical use for camouflage clothing is for hunting and to a lesser degree for trapping, although when trapping concealment is generally not that big of a concern. However, it’s easy to forget that if you’re trying to remain concealed, all of you needs to remain concealed, and that includes your lower half. That means you can’t just get a camouflage jacket, hats and boots and wear tan pants or blue jeans. Well, you can, but that juxtaposition isn’t going to look good among the brush when you’re trying to stay hidden in the field.

● Paintball and airsoft

When hunting, your goal is to stay hidden from animals; in paintball and airsoft, your goal is to stay hidden from hostile human eyes. The sharp eyes of a person will be quick to point out an unconcealed lower half that isn’t obscured by camouflage pants. Therefore, pick a pattern and stick to it. Make sure that whatever your jacket, hat and boots are is reflected, pattern-wise, in your pants.

● MilSim training

If you’re engaged in MilSim training for basically any reason and camouflage is permitted or required, then you won’t want to set yourself up without preparing to conceal your lower half with camouflage pants. The same notes apply here that apply elsewhere; as a general rule, make sure to choose a pattern that agrees with what all of your other gear has.

The Importance of Choosing an Appropriate Camouflage Pattern

Lastly, it’s important to choose a camouflage pattern that is appropriate for your use of camouflage pants - and other gear, for that matter.

This only applies to when you will be wearing camo for function and not fashion. For instance, if you are in the west or among scrubland, then a pattern that’s predominantly brown or neutral would be better than one that’s mostly green. In the eastern woodlands, green-heavy camos are more appropriate.

Either way, there isn’t one single good pattern that works everywhere (although MultiCam makes a good bid for that). That’s why you need to match the pattern to the application.

With that said, here are some high-level tips for staying hidden in the woods, whether you are hunting predators, playing airsoft and trying to stay hidden from human eyes, or just deer hunting. 

Match the Pattern and Surroundings 

The most important element of camouflage, regardless of the macros and micros it contains, is that it is suitable for the environment in which you expect to find yourself. 

For instance, Realtree Edge and US Woodland are effective in deciduous forests, but will never be particularly effective in a high montane environment with a snowy backdrop, or in the desert. They are just too predominantly green and brown. 

Similarly, tiger stripe camo is not going to be particularly effective in the lowlands for duck hunting, among the reeds - because reeds grow vertically and tiger stripe camo has horizontally slashed macros that are intended to blend into the backdrop of a jungle. 

So, all in all, make sure you get a camouflage pattern that is suitable for your background, not just in terms of the overall color palette, but also in terms of the macros and micros utilized. 

Use Natural Cover

Sometimes the best natural cover is around you, not what you’re wearing. You can blend into the background wearing little more than a tan jacket and khakis if the background matches you and you have natural cover. 

You can also cut branches, reeds, dry grasses and turf to cover your blind or gear, if they’re sticking out - doing so can be highly effective because using what’s around you is a guaranteed way to match the color and general gist of the environment, anyway. 

Camouflage Your Gear

Remember that when you’re hunting, or playing airsoft or paintball, it’s not just your person that can betray your position, but your gear as well, notably your gun or pack. 

Your pack can easily be concealed with what you have around you, especially if it is just lying on the ground next to you; cover it with some brush and that’ll go a long way. 

As for your gun or bow, natural cover can also be used here, or you can use less than conventional methods of concealment, such as camouflage tape, or even a makeshift spray camouflage job. 

Concealing a Shiny Face and Hands with What You Have

It’s important to remember that the sharp eyes of some game animals, especially predators and game birds like turkey and waterfowl, can often see what you haven’t concealed - your exposed face and hands - even if the rest of you is concealed under an appropriate camouflage pattern.

While there are commercial solutions - gloves and gaiters and hoods - you can also use a variety of natural materials to remove some of the “shine” from any exposed skin. Some good materials include charcoal, mud, clay, and wood ash. 

Any of these materials can be smeared on exposed skin to help reduce some of the shine as well as to create contrast that will break up your outline. 

Stay Still 

It’s also important to remember that stillness is one of the most important attributes of concealment, especially if what you’re hunting (or just hiding from) has sharp eyes. In fact, in some situations, stillness is more effective than your camouflage pattern in keeping you concealed. 

Moreover, staying still will help eliminate the chances that you make a noise that betrays your position - so remember, stay still, especially if you are stand hunting. 

Beyond Camouflage: Scent Control 

Lastly, and while it won’t make a difference if you’re hiding from humans during an outdoor sport like airsoft or camouflage, remember that scent control is every ounce as important as camouflage concealment, and when you’re hunting mammals, even more important. 

Where practical, use scent controlling measures, like special washes and deodorants, but more importantly, be cognizant of wind direction so you can stay on top of your scent cone. Also, be prepared for predators approaching from downwind - in all circumstances in which they can, they will approach your apparent position from downwind so they can scent you before they can see you.

Tiger Stripe Camo Cargo Shorts, Camo Shirts and More

For our part, we can help you stay concealed in the woods with appropriate camo gear and patterns. Shop our Multicam camo gear and Tiger Stripe camo collections, as well as our collections of camo shirts, camo cargo shorts, and camouflage pants.

Take a look through our collections and put some of these tips into practice the next time you’re in the field - you might find they’ll help.

Forget what you’ve heard about camo not pairing well with other patterns and colors. You just need to be smart about it. Here are some great ways to accessorize using a pair of camo cargo shorts as the baseline.

A Plain White Tee

Arguably the simplest way to make a match with a pair of camo cargo shorts is just to rock a plain white tee. A plain white t-shirt is not going to have a pattern or graphic that could even conceivably clash with the camo, whether it would in practice or not.

Plus, a plain white t-shirt is like a bright accent mark that calls attention to the outfit without running the risk of being too gaudy. Try it and see how it works for your body shape; you might like what you come up with.

A Graphic Tee

Some style guides will caution you against wearing a graphic tee with camouflage, whether in the form of a jacket or shorts, because graphics and logos do run the risk of clashing with the pattern. But they don’t have to.

As a general rule, the plainer the logo is, the better it should look with camo, but even so, you can get away with accessorizing with a more ornate design, too. This avenue lets you represent your favorite brands while also rocking camo, and in some situations, it can look great. Try it out and see how it looks for you.

Bright Colors

Bright colors can look really cool with camouflage, even neon colors like orange and yellow and even blue. This is because they add pleasant contrast to the camouflage pattern and are designed to attract rather than mute attention. The juxtaposition looks good in a way that can be hard to describe.

If you’re a hunter, consider a blaze orange t-shirt with your camo cargo shorts. It will capture attention in just the right ways and there’s something about blaze orange that just works with camouflage, even if it’s just the fact that we’re just so used to seeing them together.

The other thing that’s cool about this look is that the bright colors stand out whereas camouflage rarely does, which creates surprisingly pleasing harmony between them.

Match the Macros

The macros of a camouflage pattern are the large “pieces” of the pattern. Key in not just on what the elements are, but what the predominant colors of the macros are. For instance, if you’re wearing a pattern with large, beige macros, match your shirt to that color. If the macros are a deep green, match your shirt to that.

This will create harmony with the camouflage pattern itself but it will also help balance the color pattern, delivering striking unity that will make the whole ensemble look great together.

Accessories That Match the Camo

Another technique you can pull that can work really well is just to lean into the camo. Some style guides suggest muting the camo by not calling too much attention to it, and while that can be a viable approach, you can also underscore the camo.

And the best way to do this is with accessories in the same, or at least in similar or compatible camo patterns.

The easy way to do this is just to accessorize with the extras that are embellished with the exact same camo pattern, be that a Kryptek or US Woodland or Realtree Edge. A hat, a pair of boots, a belt, or for the ladies, a bag that sports a matching pattern is a way to create cohesion and unity in the ensemble.

Of course, you could also match the pattern with one that is compatible and similar but not the same. Match the predominant color scheme or the look and feel of the macros and it should be easier to create aesthetic harmony than you might think.

A Hoodie or Blazer

Naturally, camo cargo shorts are typically reserved for the warmer months of the year, which more or less precludes the use of cold weather gear. But for you combo breakers out there, a hoodie or a blazer over your shorts creates a unique look.

A hoodie will yield a toned-down approach for more casual gatherings, and a blazer over camo cargo shorts will create a jarring juxtaposition that will capture attention. Go on the less formal side with the blazer, though. You don’t want to overdo the look.

Throw a Flannel Over It

Conventional wisdom suggests that flannel patterns are going to clash with camouflage, and in some instances, that is definitely the case. But it is not always so.

Some flannel patterns, especially those that are aligned with the overall color palette of the camo pattern, can look pretty cool with it. Plus, flannel, like camo, is a look that is inherently rustic. That aspect of the alignment between the two just works.

One way to mute the contrast is to leave the flannel open and to wear a plain white or black t-shirt under it. That way you can introduce a little static color into an otherwise harried look, balancing it and keeping it from getting too aggressive with the color and pattern.

Coordinate with Your Camo Cargo Shorts Here

As you can see from some of the suggestions approached in this guide, there are lots of ways to style with a pair of camo cargo shorts, some of which are less than obvious. There’s a lot more than you could do with them than you might think, and at the end of the day, it all boils down to what you’re comfortable and confident with. Some of these suggestions you might try and not like, but you should at least try them first. You might find something you really like!

But what about those times when you don’t want to wear a jacket, or it’s too hot? You don’t leave off on preparedness just because the weather shifts.

With that said, here are 5 of the most popular carry positions, along with their relative advantages and disadvantages.

Inside Waistband (IWB)

Inside waistband carry, also known as IWB, is likely the most popular concealed carry option. In IWB carry, your gun is holstered inside your waistband on the dominant side of your body.

One of the greatest advantages to IWB carry is the ease of concealability. For most people, concealing a handgun against your hip inside your waistband is easy and practical, even in some cases for a full–size handgun. Carrying in this manner makes it unlikely that the gun will “print” or show through your clothing.

The IWB carry methodology also allows for a very natural, intuitive draw, as well as excellent access to your handgun, which will be naturally situated right by your dominant hand.  

Really, there aren’t many drawbacks to the IWB method. One of the only real disadvantages is that, if you tuck your shirt in, the gun is more likely to print.

Outside Waistband (OWB) 

Outside waistband carry is the only non-concealed method that will be addressed here, and it is also very popular, perhaps just after IWB carry.

In the OWB configuration, your gun will be on your hip, on the dominant side, just outside your waistband - generally in a holster mounted on your belt.  

This makes the advantages of OWB similar to those of IWB. Your gun will be in a location that’s easy to access, and offers intuitive draw.

But there are other advantages. One of the main ones is that you will not be limited by the size of the gun since you don’t need to worry about printing. You can carry a full-sized handgun comfortably outside the waistband and won’t be limited by your clothing.

The only real drawback is that OWB is mostly an open-carry proposition, unless you are carrying under a jacket, so be aware of that.

Shoulder Carry (Cross Draw)

Shoulder carry is another relatively popular concealed carry methodology. Also known as cross draw, shoulder carry offers an equal balance of advantages and disadvantages.

One of the main advantages of shoulder carry is that it enables you to carry a larger, heavier gun with less fatigue and less risk of printing. A large gun can naturally be carried under your arm or at your side for longer with less fatigue, not to mention shoulder carry holsters do a good job of distributing the weight of the gun without making you feel lopsided. They’re also arranged so that you can fairly easily conceal a larger handgun platform.

Another advantage of shoulder carry is that it enables easy access to the firearm while you are seated - something that not all other carry options offer.

But there are some significant disadvantages associated with shoulder carry as well. One is that if you’re on the ground or pressed up against a wall, it can be very hard to draw. You’ll also need to wear a jacket in order to prevent the gun from printing. 

Another is that when you draw you can very easily unintentionally muzzle yourself - your torso or your non-dominant arm - so you must be very careful and train diligently so you can draw responsibly without muzzling unintended targets.

Small-of-Back Carry

Small-of-back carry is one of the least popular concealed carry positions, and that’s likely because it has more cons than pros. All the same, it’s worth covering what these are.  

The biggest advantage of small-of-back carry is that it’s comfortable, especially for people that are standing for prolonged periods of time. Placing the weight at the small of your back helps distribute it and decrease fatigue; but this method might not be comfortable for those that spend a lot of time sitting. If the small of your back is pressed against anything - like a chair - it’ll be uncomfortable to practice this carry method for any prolonged period of time.

Now let’s cover the disadvantages of small-of-back carry. For one, drawing is slow and requires a lot of flexibility and range of motion. If you are pressed against a wall or laying down, it will become nearly impossible to draw. Also, as with shoulder carry, drawing from the small of your back invokes a high risk of muzzling yourself or other unintended targets.

Appendix Carry  

Appendix carry is like IWB, but slightly different in the sense that the holster will ride a little above your waistband, sort of over your appendix, hence the name.  

It’s a slightly controversial carry method as some users find it uncomfortable. However, for others, they argue that it is actually more comfortable, especially when seated for prolonged periods of time.

Like IWB carry, appendix carry makes concealment fairly easy, even with relatively large handguns, and also offers uncompromised, quick access to the gun, enabling a smooth, quick, easy draw.

Another great advantage is that your hands will need to cover a shorter distance when drawing, helping to get you on target faster.  

As for disadvantages, there are no big ones; a large gun may print, but that can be mitigated by opting for a compact or subcompact handgun that will prove easier to conceal.

Here for a New Concealed Carry Jacket?

All of these carry methods may be serviceable for you if you plan on carrying concealed without a jacket; however, a concealed carry jacket also represents a solution if you don’t feel like getting a separate holster and adopting a different carry method. Shop our collection of concealed carry jackets and accessories here and get in touch with us if you have any questions.

What they seem to forget is that stillness and silence are equally as important as visually concealing yourself with an appropriate camouflage pattern. Moreover, they forget that some game, like birds, can see in colors we can’t even see.

Then, consider the fact that mammalian game can and will scent you long before you even have a chance to bust yourself visually.

Anyway, the lesson here is that camouflage is not quite as important as some would have you believe. Let’s not forget that there were effective hunters and sportsmen long before camouflage was even a thing. It is, after all, a relatively modern invention.

All the same, that doesn’t mean camo can’t be your friend in the field. It most certainly can, and being smart about the camo you choose just puts one more wild card in your hand when you’re trying to punch a tag.

So, with that being said, here are the top considerations you need to make when choosing a camo shirt (and the rest of your camo gear) for an upcoming season.

The Ground

The ground is the “average” color the camo shirt appears to be when you look at it from a distance. That is, if you zoom out, what color does the shirt appear to be?

Is it light brown? Tan? Predominantly green? White, as in the case of snow camo patterns?

This is one of the more important aspects of camouflage as, from a distance, blending in with the colors around you can help keep you concealed. In fact, you don’t even need camouflage to illustrate this. Someone in a white shirt will blend into a snowy backdrop better than someone wearing black.

This has less to do with the signal-to-noise ratio that defines camouflage and more to do with contrast. If you wear a camo pattern that is predominantly the same color as your surroundings, you minimize contrast which helps you blend in.

It’s not so effective up close, where signal-to-noise ratio really matters, but at greater and intermediate ranges, it is one of the more effective components to camouflage.

In dry, scrubby woodland, opt for a brown pattern; in the snow, go with something mostly white, and in early fall and late spring, choose a pattern that is shady and green, to help keep you hidden among the leaves. 

Macros and Micros

Once you zoom in and see the actual camouflage pattern, then it becomes about concealment.

Your presence sends a signal to potential observers. The more you can interrupt this signal with noise, the harder it gets to detect your presence. Macros and micros, the elements of a camouflage pattern, increase noise.

Macros are the larger elements and micros are the smaller elements. All different camouflage patterns utilize different elements. Some, like Realtree Edge, utilize nearly photorealistic macros and micros. Others, like Mossy Oak Bottomland, rely more on geometric, abstract macros and micros that somewhat insinuate the bark of a tree.

Both patterns can be effective if you align the overall color palette and the macro and micro scheme to your backdrop. For instance, you don’t want a very leafy Mossy Oak pattern in a dry, sandy background. That will actually increase the signal you’re broadcasting by highlighting contrast.

The Game You’re Pursuing

For some game animals, like deer, the color palette of your camouflage doesn’t matter nearly as much as the pattern.

This is because deer, just for example, don’t see colors the way we do. It’s also why you can wear camo-orange, or even just blaze orange, in the deer woods and not get busted.

It’s important to remember this. Blending in is not always about color and sometimes about the pattern.

But, to take this further, let’s not forget that scent control is a much more important aspect of successful deer hunting than visual concealment - though that is a topic for another article.

Pairing Camo in Your Other Gear

You might think that mixing camo patterns is bad news, but generally this is not always the case. There are many camo patterns that complement each other well.

The only time mixing and matching camo patterns is bad is when one of them utilizes a starkly different color pattern than the other. Otherwise, you can pair up a camo shirt with pants in a totally different pattern.  

What’s more important than matching patterns is remembering that you can’t let any parts of you “stick out.”

Beyond the Camo Shirt

Following the last statement, there’s no sense in wearing a camo shirt if you’re going to go into the woods with a bright, vibrant, unconcealed pack or boots.

Worst of all are a shiny face and hands. We say shiny because that’s just what it looks like to a duck or a turkey when you don’t cover your face or hands. They shine in the woods or on the marsh like a beacon.

Now, naturally, you have some options here. Wear camouflage gloves to cover your hands. For your face, you could wear a facemask or a hood that keeps you concealed.

Or, as some hunters do, you could just use a bit of charcoal to smudge your cheeks and forehead. That will help keep you concealed.

Get Your Camo Gear Here

Whether you’re here for a camo shirt or need camouflage pants or a pack, we have all the camo gear you need. Keep concealed with game or hostile combatants in paintball or airsoft with the plethora of camouflage gear we carry in our shop, including classic patterns like US Woodland or Tiger Stripe camo.

Take a closer look through our collections today to find what you need and round out your inventory, and if you have any questions about anything we carry, get in touch with us.

It means, in context, that the weapon in your hand is not as important as your knowledge of how to use it.

But more broadly, it means that knowledge is more important than material. With a sharp mind you can find the weapon in any mundane object.

This extends to disaster and survival preparedness. Recognizing the potential in the stuff you have around you is more important than stocking a pantry or closet full of prepper supplies.

On that same note, here are 8 common household goods and items that have a lot of value in SHTF situations.

Dryer Lint

Dryer lint has a whole lot of uses and most of us are drowning in it. Arguably its most important survival use is as a firestarter. It’ll take a spark easily, even from a lighter that’s out of fuel, and it can be soaked with wax or oil to extend the burn time.

But dryer lint can also be used as an absorbent, a stuffing material for crafts and pillows, and more. You can even make paper from it, if you know how.

Vaseline

Vaseline has tons of uses around the homestead, and not all of them are for first aid. In addition to soothing chafes and dry skin, it can help seal wounds to shorten healing time.

Vaseline can also be used to craft firestarters; just soak cotton puffs, or as stated above, dryer lint, in vaseline, light it and see.

In addition, vaseline is a marvelous lubricant. You can use it to grease gears and moving parts, and since it’s petroleum based, it can handle relatively high temperatures.

Aluminum Foil

Aluminum foil can be pressed over a flat surface and used to make a signalling mirror. It’s also helpful for cooking if you don’t have any cookware; just wrap up the food in foil and stick it in the coals.

Aluminum foil balls can also be used as light abrasives, for cleaning pots and pans, as well as for polishing metal. Aluminum can also be fashioned into improvised vessels for transporting water and other liquids, and it can also be fashioned into a funnel to streamline transferring liquids.

Hand Sanitizer

Hand sanitizer is not just helpful for keeping your hands clean. Its antiseptic properties are also useful as a topical disinfectant.

Since hand sanitizer is mostly alcohol, it also burns pretty readily. You can use it to start a fire, but you can also use it as a relatively clean-burning fuel for some small stoves..

On top of that, the alcohol in hand sanitizer is a powerful solvent and as a result, can be used for general-purpose cleaning.

Duct Tape

Duct tape is one of the most versatile of all prepper supplies. Naturally, it can be used to tape things up to make basic repairs, but this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Duct tape can also be used as a trail marker, to stop leaks, and fashioned into bandages. It can also be split apart and woven to create impromptu cordage that can be vital in a survival situation.

Plastic Bags

Plastic bags have lots of uses, particularly with respect to carrying liquids and loose materials, but the one main function as a prepper supply is that plastic bags can be used to make high-strength, low-weight cordage.

Tear the plastic bags into thin strips and then reverse twist these around each other to make a fairly strong, lightweight, and easy-to-fashion improvised cordage that has tons of uses.

A Bandana

Bandanas, or more broadly, just a thin piece of fabric tactile, can have a great deal of value as a prepper supply.

Bandanas can be fashioned into slings, made into baskets or pouches for gathering or carrying materials, and, if brightly colored, they can also be used for signalling.

Moreover, bandanas can be fashioned into small pillows (stuff them with dryer lint, perhaps), and they can also be used as mechanical water filters during the process of water treatment.

Ground Cinnamon

Of course, cinnamon is a spice and will add flavor to your dishes, but it also has a number of uses as a prepper supply, most of them stemming from its antifungal and antibacterial properties.

Used topically, cinnamon has the potential to help reduce the risk of infection and inflammation. It can also be applied to underarms and shoes to help reduce dampness and fight odors.

Moreover, cinnamon is a highly effective pest repellent. Mosquitos, ants and mice hate it. Sprinkle it around your home or apply to your clothing (sparingly) to help keep pests at bay.

Explore Prepper Supplies Here

Now that you have some ideas for inspiration on how to repurpose some of the materials around your home into prepper supplies, round out your collection with some professional curated goods and kits. Shop our assortment of prepper supplies and emergency food supplies and stock up today.

What they seem to forget is that stillness and silence are equally as important as visually concealing yourself with an appropriate camouflage pattern. Moreover, they forget that some game, like birds, can see in colors we can’t even see.

Then, consider the fact that mammalian game can and will scent you long before you even have a chance to bust yourself visually.

Anyway, the lesson here is that camouflage is not quite as important as some would have you believe. Let’s not forget that there were effective hunters and sportsmen long before camouflage was even a thing. It is, after all, a relatively modern invention.

All the same, that doesn’t mean camo can’t be your friend in the field. It most certainly can, and being smart about the camo you choose just puts one more wild card in your hand when you’re trying to punch a tag.

So, with that being said, here are the top considerations you need to make when choosing a camo shirt (and the rest of your camo gear) for an upcoming season.

The Ground

The ground is the “average” color the camo shirt appears to be when you look at it from a distance. That is, if you zoom out, what color does the shirt appear to be?

Is it light brown? Tan? Predominantly green? White, as in the case of snow camo patterns?

This is one of the more important aspects of camouflage as, from a distance, blending in with the colors around you can help keep you concealed. In fact, you don’t even need camouflage to illustrate this. Someone in a white shirt will blend into a snowy backdrop better than someone wearing black.

This has less to do with the signal-to-noise ratio that defines camouflage and more to do with contrast. If you wear a camo pattern that is predominantly the same color as your surroundings, you minimize contrast which helps you blend in.

It’s not so effective up close, where signal-to-noise ratio really matters, but at greater and intermediate ranges, it is one of the more effective components to camouflage.

In dry, scrubby woodland, opt for a brown pattern; in the snow, go with something mostly white, and in early fall and late spring, choose a pattern that is shady and green, to help keep you hidden among the leaves. 

Macros and Micros

Once you zoom in and see the actual camouflage pattern, then it becomes about concealment.

Your presence sends a signal to potential observers. The more you can interrupt this signal with noise, the harder it gets to detect your presence. Macros and micros, the elements of a camouflage pattern, increase noise.

Macros are the larger elements and micros are the smaller elements. All different camouflage patterns utilize different elements. Some, like Realtree Edge, utilize nearly photorealistic macros and micros. Others, like Mossy Oak Bottomland, rely more on geometric, abstract macros and micros that somewhat insinuate the bark of a tree.

Both patterns can be effective if you align the overall color palette and the macro and micro scheme to your backdrop. For instance, you don’t want a very leafy Mossy Oak pattern in a dry, sandy background. That will actually increase the signal you’re broadcasting by highlighting contrast.

The Game You’re Pursuing

For some game animals, like deer, the color palette of your camouflage doesn’t matter nearly as much as the pattern.

This is because deer, just for example, don’t see colors the way we do. It’s also why you can wear camo-orange, or even just blaze orange, in the deer woods and not get busted.

It’s important to remember this. Blending in is not always about color and sometimes about the pattern.

But, to take this further, let’s not forget that scent control is a much more important aspect of successful deer hunting than visual concealment - though that is a topic for another article.

Pairing Camo in Your Other Gear

You might think that mixing camo patterns is bad news, but generally this is not always the case. There are many camo patterns that complement each other well.

The only time mixing and matching camo patterns is bad is when one of them utilizes a starkly different color pattern than the other. Otherwise, you can pair up a camo shirt with pants in a totally different pattern.  

What’s more important than matching patterns is remembering that you can’t let any parts of you “stick out.”

Beyond the Camo Shirt

Following the last statement, there’s no sense in wearing a camo shirt if you’re going to go into the woods with a bright, vibrant, unconcealed pack or boots.

Worst of all are a shiny face and hands. We say shiny because that’s just what it looks like to a duck or a turkey when you don’t cover your face or hands. They shine in the woods or on the marsh like a beacon.

Now, naturally, you have some options here. Wear camouflage gloves to cover your hands. For your face, you could wear a facemask or a hood that keeps you concealed.

Or, as some hunters do, you could just use a bit of charcoal to smudge your cheeks and forehead. That will help keep you concealed.

Get Your Camo Gear Here

Whether you’re here for a camo shirt or need camouflage pants or a pack, we have all the camo gear you need. Keep concealed with game or hostile combatants in paintball or airsoft with the plethora of camouflage gear we carry in our shop, including classic patterns like US Woodland or Tiger Stripe camo.

Take a closer look through our collections today to find what you need and round out your inventory, and if you have any questions about anything we carry, get in touch with us.

The ALICE pack served military personnel well through Vietnam and far beyond before it was ultimately replaced by the MOLLE system in 2001.

That said, it can still serve you well as a field pack, whether you’re backpacking, camping, paintballing, or just hiking. And while there might be better systems, you have to make use of what you have. If that’s an ALICE pack, so be it.

Besides, you can make a good thing great if you know how to use it properly, become aware of its advantages, and capitalize on them in appropriate fashion.

Case in point: if you use your ALICE pack for multi-day trips or other outings, knowing how to pack it properly will make your life a whole lot easier.

On that front, here are some important notices.

At the Bottom

From a high level, what you need to know about what to pack in the main compartment of your ALICE pack is that this is the first stuff that goes in, so it needs to be the least accessible. Also, you should make it the heaviest, bulkiest stuff that you only need to access once per day at most, if not less frequently than that.

As a result, the bottom of your ALICE pack should be loaded with the heavy, bulky items that you never need to draw at a moment’s notice - such as a second pair of shoes or spare clothing, or even boots. You can also use this portion of your pack for heavy items like cookware or percolators (if you are traveling with them) as well as heavy tools.  

Placing heavy items at the bottom of the pack also ensures that the pack will be loaded evenly so that it will ride appropriately on your hips and lower back, without placing too much of a strain on your shoulders, neck or upper body.

If you are carrying a sleeping system such as a pad and sleeping back, the bottom of your pack is the place to store it. Alternatively, you can lash these to the outside of your pack (see below).

In the Middle

The middle of your ALICE pack is where you should pack essentials that, though you might need them during the course of the day or trip, you shouldn’t need immediate, unfettered access to them.

This includes items like light cookware, plates, mugs or utensils, along with food supplies, a stove, and spare water supplies.

Packing items like these in the middle of your pack, which are somewhat lighter in weight, but still not as immediately necessary as the stuff in the bottom of your pack, also helps to ensure that your pack is properly loaded, while saving the space at the top of the pack for items you might need at a moment’s notice.

At the Top

The top of your ALICE pack’s main compartment is where you should store two main categories of goods - the lightweight stuff, and things that you might need immediately, or at multiple points throughout the course of a day or trip.

Placing the essentials at the top of the pack ensures that you will have immediate and unfettered access to them effectively whenever you need, and packing the lights stuff at the top ensures that your pack won’t be top heavy, which in turn will make it easier and more comfortable to carry, for longer and with less fatigue.

Some important items that you might want to carry at the top of the pack include your rain jacket or poncho, a flashlight, hat or sunglasses (if you are not wearing them), bear spray, medical essentials, water or water filters, and first aid essentials. The top of your pack is also a good place to store a map and compass so they are readily accessible. 

These items are all fairly lightweight and compact, and they offer a good representation of the things that you might need to access at multiple points throughout a single day, not just a trip.

However, since an ALICE pack is modular and has a variety of exterior compartments, there’s some flexibility with what things you carry in the pack and in the accessory pockets.

Outside Pockets

Since the ALICE pack has some exterior pockets, you can transfer some of the lighter equipment from the top of the pack to these pockets.

Some good candidates for the outside pockets include a canteen, flashlight, bear spray, first aid supplies, medicines, chapstick, lip balm, sunglasses, and orienteering and navigation equipment. You might also want to use these compartments to store tools like a knife or trowel.

They’re also good for storing your personal essentials like car keys, ID, and things like bug spray, since they are open and accessible. Using these pockets rather than stuffing everything you have into the main compartment will also help distribute the weight better while affording better overall access to more of what you’re carrying.

Lash-on and Loops

Here’s one of the big drawbacks to the ALICE system - unlike the MOLLE system, there aren’t a lot of attachment points for lashing or clipping on essentials to the outside, so ensuring fast, easy access.

That doesn’t mean you can’t get creative. While MOLLE packs might offer more attachment points, you can still get creative with a few carabiners and some paracord, lashing and clipping

That doesn’t mean you can’t get creative. While MOLLE packs might offer more attachment points, you can still get creative with a few carabiners and some paracord, lashing and clipping

on essentials to the outside of the pack for faster, easier access. Just make sure you attach them securely and you reserve this option for the most important items that you might need at a moment’s notice. Anything else is better stored inside the pack or one of its pockets or compartments.

Here for an ALICE Pack?

If you need to replace an aging pack that’s had its best seasons behind it, we have you covered. Take a look through our catalog; we carry ALICE packs and a whole lot more than that, including plenty of camping supplies and other equipment. Shop our full collection and get in touch with us if you still have questions.

What you carry on your utility belt will be a function of what your line of duty is. Police, firefighters, first responders and others in the line of official duty all have unique needs for tools and other gear that will vary slightly from each other.

Others, more concerned with recreation, might carry a utility belt as well - such as paintballers, airsoft players, and others involved in outdoor sports. What you carry will be determined by your purpose, but how to load the belt is a more universal concern.

How to Load It

There are two important things you keep in mind when loading a utility belt. These are access to your essential gear and weight distribution.

In the former case, loading the belt properly will ensure that you can access what you need most when you need it, and will keep the most vital tools and gear within each reach of your hands. Less essential items can be placed farther back and around the sides of the belt.

The other consideration, that of weight distribution, helps to ensure that you don’t overload the belt on one side such that it drags down on your hips or makes it difficult to carry your other gear, or even to move. A lopsided utility belt will also wear you out more quickly, whereas a conscientiously loaded belt will enable you to go about your daily activities with less fatigue.

First, let’s talk about where you want to place essential gear. Suppose you’re a law enforcement officer and carry a holster with a firearm, spare magazines, handcuffs, a flashlight, a baton, radio, and pepper spray. You might carry others too but we’ll cover these.

The holster and firearm should be on your hip on your dominant side. You will need fastest access to these in a crisis. The magazines should be on your non-dominant side. The reason for this is that you won’t need them unless you experience a jam or empty your service firearm, but equally as importantly, loaded magazines are heavy and these will help to even out the weight on the opposite side of your gun.

Your handcuffs you won’t need unless you’ve already subdued a culprit, which means you can place them far at the back of your utility belt, if not skewed off slightly to your non-dominant side.

Now we have a big void at the front of the belt. You can place your radio here, since this is a large, heavy item that will help even out the weight across the front of the belt. If needed, you can skew it off slightly to one side or the other to accommodate the buckle.

As for your flashlight, that’s probably going to be a very lightweight item, so you can store it on the front, right side of your utility belt so you have quick, easy access to it without adding too much weight where you place it.

That leaves a lot of room at the back of the utility belt, where you can store your baton, pepper spray, and anything else you’re carrying. This will help distribute the weight evenly across the sides and at the front and back of the utility belt, prevent any one side from dragging down, increasing comfort and reducing fatigue.

What to Carry in Your Utility Belt

Now let’s talk about what you might need to carry in your utility belt. This will vary according to your position and your line of duty.

For law enforcement officers, this will likely entail what’s already been covered: a holster and firearm, spare magazines, pepper spray, a flashlight, a baton, handcuffs or single-use restraints, a radio, and a few other items.

For first responders and EMTs, this might entail handcuffs, flashlights, a radio, keys, shears, multitools, seatbelt cutters, and personal protective equipment like facemasks and disposable gloves.

Firefighters also have unique needs, and they might need to carry wire cutters, door chocks, multitools, knives, wrenches, gloves, carabiners, and other duty-specific tools.

That leaves us with those concerned with recreation: paintballers and airsoft players. For these uses, you might want to carry spare magazines and ammo (BBs or paintballs), spare gas, flashlights, multitools, and if you’re working with a team, a radio, among other essentials.

Of course, this list is not complete and what you need to carry will be determined by the unique scenario in which you find yourself, along with any regulatory requirements to which you’re subjected in the line of official duty. Nonetheless, this is a good place to start.

Here for Your Next Utility Belt?

Whether you’re here for a utility belt or are looking for gear to outfit it appropriately, we can help you out. Shop our full collection here and get in touch with us directly if you have any questions about what we sell or are looking for something specific.

Fortunately, this guide will help make sure you pick out an appropriate pair depending on intended use, and then how to make sure they last for more than a year!

Upper Material

The first thing you will want to evaluate is the upper material. Commonly, kids’ combat boots are either made with leather uppers, cotton canvas, or synthetic materials like ballistic nylon.

The former two are tough, natural materials that offer a high degree of support and breathability, but they are also intolerant of mistreatment. Ballistic nylon is affordable, lightweight, and low maintenance.

Nylon and cotton canvas uppers are generally better in hot, wet conditions because they are breathable, but insulation (see below) also plays into this.

With that said, any of these upper materials can result in an appropriate pair of kids’ combat boots.

Insulation Rating

Insulation rating really only matters if your kid is going to wear these boots in the cold but it is something to be aware of nonetheless.

You can skip insulation rating for boots that will only be worn in the summer months; give your preference to boots with lightweight, breathable uppers.

Stick with boots with a higher insulation rating for use in the colder months of the year, such as for paintball, airsoft, hiking, camping or hunting during the winter months.

Sole Type

There are two main types of soles on most kids’ combat boots. These are wedge soles and lug soles.

Wedge soles have a much smoother surface without deep treads. These offer better traction on flat, smooth surfaces, like pavement and indoor floors, than they do on earth. They also last longer because lug soles wear faster on paved surfaces.

On the flipside, wedge soles don’t offer the same traction on earth and unpaved surfaces as they do on flat surfaces, which makes lug soles better for use outdoors - as a general rule.

However, while lug soles will perform better and last longer outside on the ground, they will wear faster on paved surfaces.

So, the bottom line is this: if your kid is going to wear these boots indoors or in urban environments, go with wedge soles.

If he or she is going to wear them outdoors only or in the wild, choose an option with lug soles.

Eyelet Type

Some kids’ combat boots may have conventional eyelets, but if it’s all the same to you, get a pair of boots with speed hooks.

It is far easier for small, uncoordinated hands to manipulate laces around speed hooks than it is to work with conventional eyelets, and it makes it faster, easier, and less frustrating for kids to get their boots on and off.

With that said, either eyelet type can be practical in a pair of kids’ combat boots, just keep these notes in mind.

Maintenance Notes for Kids’ Combat Boots

The second half of getting a quality pair of kids’ combat boots is knowing how to take care of them, because let’s face it - both kids’ and adults’ combat boots won’t last more than a few months, a year at most, without proper care.

Here are some high-level notes to make sure your next purchase lasts at least long enough to make it worth it.

Keeping Them Clean

The first and easiest way to make sure your kids’ combat boots don’t fall apart after one season is to keep them clean.

This means any time that your kid comes in from the woods or fields and has a pair of wet, muddy boots, you need to get them cleaned off and dried in short order.

Take out the laces and pull the tongue forward; brush off deposits of mud or dirt anywhere they are caked on the upper or around the eyelets.

Pay close attention to the welt where the upper contacts the sole. You will want to make sure you don’t leave any sand or mud in there, either.

Then, clean off the soles with a stiff brush. Lug soles can trap a lot of dirt and mud so you will want to pay special, close attention to these.

After Wear in Wet Weather

If your kid’s combat boots get soaked, you’ll want to dry them off fairly quickly without stressing the material.

If they’re made of cotton or ballistic nylon, just put them near a heater or a fire, or use a dedicated boot dryer.

You need to be a little more ginger with leather, as leather can stiffen, warp and crack if you attempt to dry it out too quickly.

Never place leather near a direct heat source; rather stuff the boots with newspaper and change when they get damp, several times over the course of a few hours or a day, until the uppers are completely dry.

Special Notes for Leather

If you get a pair of kids’ combat boots with leather uppers, you’ll want to make sure you condition them periodically. This is because leather that is not conditioned will dry out, get brittle, and eventually crack. This damage is irreparable. It cannot be repaired, it can only be prevented.

The best way to do so is to keep the boots clean, dry, and conditioned with a special leather conditioner. Apply this as indicated by the manufacturer’s recommendations in order to keep the leather soft and supple, and to prevent it from drying out.

Here for a New Pair of Kids’ Combat Boots

Here because you need a new pair of kids’ combat boots? Check out our full collection here; we sell combat boots, jungle boots, hiking boots, and a bunch of other options in our catalog. If you have any questions about anything we sell, get in touch with us before buying and we’ll be happy to help you out.

Therefore it behooves you to pay close attention to the gun you carry, the jacket you choose, and if the jacket doesn’t have an integral holster or pocket, the holster as well.

Here are some considerations to take before selecting one of each of these.

Considerations to Take for Your Carry Handgun

You need to make sure the gun you carry daily for self defense is comfortable to carry, and that you are proficient, confident, and safe when handling it. Here are a few things to take into consideration.

• Size and footprint: The size, weight and footprint will impact your handling of the gun. All in all, smaller, lighter handguns are easier to conceal and carry for longer periods of time. They are less likely to print (show through your clothing). While they will handle more friskily and generate a little more recoil, as a general rule, many prefer smaller, lighter handguns to those with larger, full-sized frames.

• Action: You can take your pick of handguns, but as a general rule you will need to choose between a revolver and a slide-action semi-automatic. Revolvers are very reliable, but most have heavy trigger pulls and no external safeties. Some shooters also find them harder to use. External hammers on some models can also result in hangups when you draw. At the same time, slide-action semi-autos can jam if limp-wristed, but at the same time they can offer extended capacity. Still, the choice is yours.

• Capacity: You will also have to consider capacity. Most revolvers offer between 6 and 8 rounds of capacity, some pocket pistols may offer 6 shots or fewer. At the same time, double-stack handguns like the G19 offer a standard capacity of 15 rounds (or more with extended magazines).

• Caliber: Caliber influences capacity, stopping power, dropping power, and also recoil and handling. You don’t want a cartridge that’s too anemic and doesn’t produce enough stopping power, like .22LR or .380 ACP, but at the same time, you need a cartridge that you can actually control. Cartridges like .357 Magnum and 10mm Auto produce excellent stopping power, but many shooters also find them hard to control. Other cartridges, like 9mm and 45. ACP are in the middle of the road, and most shooters consider them reasonably easy to control, while also offering good stopping power and with proper shot placement, good dropping power. Ultimately, the choice is yours. You may want to visit a range with a friend experienced in the shooting sports so you can shoot a few different handguns in different chamberings to find the one that will work best for you.

• Fire controls: Some revolvers are single action only, which means they need to be manually cocked before firing each time. These are not suitable for defensive carry. Also, many revolvers lack safety mechanisms. At the same time, you need to be sure that all controls - cylinder latches, external hammers, safeties, slide releases, mag releases, and others, are easy to access, and that you can comfortably manipulate them. Consider also your dominant hand; some handgun designs inherently favor right vs. left-handed shooters.

In addition to these considerations, you should also spend plenty of time at the range drilling with your handgun, clearing jams and malfunctions, charging and dropping magazines, and of course, shooting. You should drill to the point that operating the handgun comes to you as second nature.

How to Shop for Concealed Carry Jackets

The concealed carry jacket you wear has as much of an impact on your safety as the gun you choose because it will ensure that the gun is both concealed and secured, while at the same time allowing rapid access to it.

Here are some important pointers to make sure you choose an effective concealed carry jacket.

• Function over form, no exceptions. It should go without saying, but the concealed carry jacket you buy must be well-made from quality materials. Many jackets are bought for aesthetics and it’s acceptable to buy a CC jacket that looks good as long as (and only as long as) it also is well made and meets all of the other criteria here.

• A concealed carry jacket should fit you comfortably but should allow for layering. You don’t want a jacket that’s too small and which limits your range of motion. As a general rule, buy a half size or a size up from your normal size. That will afford you the greatest range of motion, while also enabling you to layer in colder weather.

• You should have easy access to the handgun. Regardless of how you carry or where on your body, a concealed carry jacket must offer sure, rapid, easy access to your handgun.

• No buttons on concealed carry jackets. Buttons may look cool but they have no place on a concealed carry jacket. Here it’s zipper only; they can be rapidly opened, and buttons can get stuck. You can’t afford that on a jacket for concealed carry.

• Opt for a three-season jacket. If the jacket’s too heavy, it will be uncomfortable to wear in the spring and fall (not to mention summer). Meanwhile, if it’s a very light jacket, you can wear it in the summer, fall, and spring, and layer in the winter during cooler temperatures.

• Your jacket should have space for more than one mag. If you carry concealed, you should carry two if not three spare loaded mags with you.

As for the Holster

If the concealed carry jacket you choose does not have an integral holster, there are several considerations you’ll want to take as to which handgun holster you choose as well.

• Holster material: Pistol holsters are typically made of nylon, Kydex, or leather. The former two offer excellent friction fits and can protect the gun from moisture related damage. As for leather, it will stretch over time offering a custom-like fit, though it can trap moisture next to the gun, leading to rust.

• The design of the holster: Regardless of the material you choose for your holster, the holster should fully enclose the trigger as well as any exposed fire controls, as an added layer of safety.

• How you carry: You should also consider how you carry. The majority of those who carry concealed either carry on their belt inside their waistband (IWB) or outside their waistband (OWB) though some may also practice cross-draw or shoulder carry. You will want to make sure the holster you choose works for you.

• Whether or not the holster offers secondary retention features: Some holsters only offer a friction fit. Others offer secondary retention measures, such as locks or straps that must be disengaged or removed before the gun can be drawn, helping to prevent anyone but you from accessing your weapon.

Now that you’re equipped with these tips, the road to a concealed carry handgun, as well as a jacket and a holster that work well for you considering your unique needs, should be easier. Keep them in mind as you’re looking at concealed carry accessories, and remember to take your time. This is an important decision and you shouldn’t snap to it.

All the same, does it still constitute an effective pattern, and if so, when and where can you wear it?

What Is Tiger Stripe Camo?

Tiger stripe camo is a camouflage pattern that was developed by either the United States or the South Vietnamese Armed Forces for use in dense jungle environments during the Vietnam War. There is a theory, however, that it may have developed from improvements and adjustments made to the French Lizard Pattern, also known as Leopard Pattern, that was used by the French Armed Forces from the 1940s to the 1980s. This would make sense considering the involvement of the French in Vietnam as a former colony.

Tiger Stripe Camo consists mainly of broad, horizontal macros and thinner, smaller micros. In most classic patterns, the macros are green, brown and black, and the micros are khaki. One other way of describing the pattern would be that the green, brown and black macros are overlaid over a tan or khaki backdrop.

The strokes of the macros typically interlock rather than overlap each other, and this gives the camouflage an appearance roughly reminiscent of a tiger’s stripes, hence the common name.

This type of camouflage was originally effective in dense, jungle environments because the broad macros were somewhat similar to the large, broad leaves of plants in the lower levels of the jungle. With appropriate coloration, this camo pattern effectively concealed a wearer in such environments.

Interestingly, though this pattern is associated with the Vietnam War, it was never an official US pattern, although some personnel did wear it. Towards the end of the war, a new pattern, ERDL, also known as “Leaf Pattern,” became more common among American servicemen in Vietnam.

Today, tiger stripe camo gear and clothing is still available in the original green, brown and black configuration as well as in modern adaptations, including those that are made with black, gray, blue and pink macros.

Where Is Tiger Stripe Camo Still an Effective Pattern

Depending on your intended use, as well as the environment in which you will be operating, respective of the time of year, tiger stripe camo can still absolutely be an effective pattern.

Let’s take a look at it from an outdoorsman’s angle. If you hunt in the northeast during the spring or early fall (or even in the summer) in the woods where there is a lot of foliage, tiger stripe can be a very effective pattern. In the far north in the winter, and in the high, dry country of the west, however, there are definitely better patterns. At the same time, tiger stripe would probably perform the best in bright, deciduous forest, and not so much in primarily coniferous forest, such as in boreal forest areas.

Also, tiger stripe camo patterns are likely not the most effective for any areas in which the backdrop is predominantly brown or white, or anywhere else that there isn’t a lot of broadleaf cover. Their utility is mostly restricted to heavily forested areas. Other modern patterns from Kryptek, Mossy Oak and Realtree might be better but tiger stripe is effective nonetheless.

But tiger stripe camo is not necessarily just effective for sportsmen. It can also potentially be effective for concealment among other practitioners of outdoor sports. For instance, airsoft and paintball players, or anyone engaged in MilSim, under similar environmental conditions, might also be well-served by tiger stripe camo.

There is another situation in which tiger stripe camo might be effective, although the purposes would not be solely for concealment, and that is reenactment. If you are involved in a guild that is responsible for Vietnam-era reenactments, tiger stripe might not only be effective, but necessary.

Of course, not everything associated with a camouflage pattern has to do with concealment, despite the fact that this is the patent purpose of camouflage. It can also be worn for fashion, or simply for the aesthetic - something that is clearly evident in many modern and recent trends. This is especially the case in patterns that are not faithful to the original green, black and brown.

Whatever the reason, you can still wear tiger stripe camo, and it does remain, in some circumstances, a practical pattern.

Where to Get Tiger Stripe Camo Gear

Interested in tiger stripe camo clothing and other field gear? You’re in the right place. Take a look at our full collection via the previous link and don’t miss a chance to see our full MultiCam collection as well.

If you have any questions about camouflage patterns, or about any of the products we sell, make sure to get in touch with us directly and we will be more than happy to answer any questions you have.

What’s missing? Your camouflage pants, naturally.

For some reason, sportsmen just tend to overlook their pants. The reason why is beyond us, since your pants are not only necessary for concealment, but are every ounce as important for protection and comfort as your jacket will be.

Do you need to go out and drop a thousand on your camouflage pants? Not by any stretch. But you should still know what to look for.

This guide should help.

Camouflage Pattern

Whether you’re a Mossy Oak Bottomland traditionalist, prefer the classic look of RealTree EDGE, or love the ultra-modern look of Kryptek patterns, it is critical that your pants not only align with the backdrop, but with the rest of your gear.

It is actually a misconception that you need to wear one single camo pattern on all of your gear. You’re trying to stay hidden here, not win a fashion contest. Most critters (and human eyes, for that matter) won’t be able to see a pair of US Woodland pants clashing with a Tiger Stripe camo top.

But, the patterns must agree with each other in terms of general palette as well as pattern type and density.

For instance, MultiCam will disappear next to a tan-heavy camo like Desert Battle Dress. But you can’t wear a green-heavy camo like Mossy Oak Obsession against a predominantly brown pattern like Shadow Blades.

You see what we mean? They have to agree with each other.

Now that we have that out of the way, let’s get to something more important.

Material

This is probably the most important thing you need to shop for, even more than the camouflage pattern. The fabric from which your pants are made will dictate both comfort and protection.

Heavy cotton duck canvas is probably the best material for camouflage pants, if you will use them on drives. Canvas is tough and hard to rip and will protect your legs from thorns and briars. That’s an important note: upland hunters will get shredded pushing through brush. Consider a heavy cotton fabric, such as 8 ounce or heavier.

Wool is acceptable for stand hunts, as wool is the best insulator out there and retains some of its insulative properties even when wet.

For other applications, blends like NyCo (nylon and cotton) or poly-cotton (polyester and cotton) are lightweight, which makes them acceptable in hotter weather. Another type of fabric to be on the lookout for is ripstop fabric, which has a special weave that helps prevent tears from traveling. It’s usually pretty light, though, so it’s not much protection from thorns.

Reinforced Areas

You’ll also want to look for pants that have special reinforced areas, especially if you will use the pants for upland hunting, which can be extremely unforgiving. Two important areas are around the knees and at the seat of the pants.

However, the entire front of the pants should be reinforced if possible as this will afford you the greatest degree of protection against brambles, thorns, and other impediments.

Insulation

Depending on the season you hunt, insulation is critical in a pair of camouflage pants, just as it is in a jacket.

Earlier in the season, you might want a lighter pair of ripstop pants that are breathable and which lack supplementary insulation. These will keep you cool and dry in the hotter, earlier seasons of the fall.

But later in the fall and into the winter, when the temperatures in the field can be punishingly cold, it’s more important to be prepared with a pair of camouflage pants that are appropriately rated to the environment.

Again, wool is good here because it offers excellent protection against the cold, even when wet, which is something that other popular materials, like cotton, polyester and nylon cannot offer.

Waterproofing

In pretty much all cases, your camouflage pants should be waterproof, assuming you are going to wear them while hunting.

This is because even in the spring and summer - in fact, especially in the spring and summer, which are the wettest seasons of the year - even hot, dry days will start off extremely wet.

The dew is thick in the spring and summer and wading through knee high grass will soak you to the bone unless your pants are waterproof. Plus, there’s little worse than being hot and wet, and cotton won’t dry on its own.

With that said, having waterproof pants is an important safeguard anyway. Just make sure your pants are waterproof and you’ll be good to go.

Quiet Features

Depending on what you’ll be hunting for, it may be important to get pants that are designed for silence.

For instance, if you hunt turkeys, predators, or deer, you’ll want pants with silent features - like no Velcro or zippers, and quiet fabrics like Tricot, so you can stay silent even if you need to move in your stand.

All else being equal, a silent pair of pants is best. But this is not a dealbreaker by any means.

Storage Considerations

Lastly, you’ll want to make sure the pants you buy will have enough pockets and other storage features for your critical gear.

Granted, much of your gear will probably be stored in your pack, or in a vest, or even in your jacket, but you will still want the assurance that your hunting pants have some room for gear.

Some hunting pants are even cargo pants and have additional pockets on the legs, not just in the front and at the seat of the pants.

 Shop Camouflage Pants Here

Ready for a couple new pairs of camouflage pants for the upcoming seasons? Get whatever you’re looking for here. Take a look through our collection of pants - many popular camouflage patterns are well-represented, along with many different styles of pants for different hunting seasons, pursuits and disciplines.

Right in our backyard, or a few miles away, depending on how you see it, we have Lackawanna State Park, Ricketts Glen, and Vosburg Neck State Park, among many others. A little bit further south, you can pick up the AT, too.

NEPA caters to the needs of everyone from serious through-hikers to day trippers and all the others in between - which brings up the question, what do you need to pack for a day trip?

Here’s a good place to start.

What Clothing to Wear?

Let’s start with clothing. You’ll want to wear lightweight, breathable clothing. Performance synthetics, cotton, viscose and linen are good for hot, humid weather.

As for pants, camo cargo shorts might seem like a good bet because it’s hot, but there are hikers that wear long pants even in the summer because they afford better protection against ticks as well as against noxious plants like stinging nettles and poison ivy.

You can go long or short, but our bet goes for cargo pants either way since they offer more room for storage. Shop our collection of camo cargo shorts while you’re here to get some ideas for what to bring.

A Note on Proper Footwear

Next, you want to consider what footwear to wear. Conventional wisdom says lightweight, quick drying footwear like jungle boots are the best bet for summer hiking since they are breathable, and there is good logic behind this.

However, they’re also made with canvas panels that can stay wet in humid conditions. While you don’t want heavy boots in the summer, you might still want a waterproof pair. Waterproof boots will keep you more comfortable on some muddy, wet trails, even if your feet get a little hot.

(Also, pack some moleskin patches so you can treat hot spots before they become blisters.)

What to Bring in Your Day Pack

Now that we’ve covered what to wear, let’s take a closer look at what to pack in your day pack. Gear up your camo backpack or MOLLE backpack with the following.

Sun Protection

There are three elements of sun protection. These are sun screen, sunglasses, and headwear. All three are essential.

Make sure you bring along some sunscreen and wear it on any areas that are exposed, like your forearms and face. Only you know how sensitive you are to the sun so use your best judgment.

Next come sunglasses. Trust us, you can get snow blind in the summer. You don’t necessarily need to wear sunglasses but you should definitely have them with you. Sport glasses offer the best coverage. We also recommend polarized glasses because they cut glare.

Lastly, think about headwear. You might not like hats but they will keep the sun out of your eyes and protect your face. Ball caps are a good bet, as are western style hats, bucket hats, and boonies.

Bug Protection

You might like hot weather, but so do the bugs, and trust us, the Appalachians are a hotbed of pests in the summer. Hot humid weather and plentiful wetlands make the place a soup of ticks, chiggers, and mosquitoes in the summer. Take our word for it, you don’t want to try any of the trails around here without good bug spray in the summer. Learn from our experience or gain your own experience, at your own risk.

Food and Water

Now let’s talk about food and hydration. Since you’ll only be out for a day, you don’t need to pack a lot of food. Just bring along some dry goods for emergencies. Some trail mix or a snack bar should be all you need.

Water is another story. You have to pack smart though, as water adds weight. Unless you have a hydration system, bring along either a quart or two quarts of water. That should get you through most day hikes. If you expect to be out longer, then consider a more adequate hydration system like a Camelbak with a bladder.

A Waterproof Case Big Enough for Your Phone

This is just there to serve as a backup. Serious thunderstorms can crop up in the Appalachians that, though they might be short lived, could be quite intense enough to drench you in a matter of minutes. Bring along a waterproof, locking case in your pack that’s just big enough for your phone so you can stash it in the event of a storm.

A Packable Poncho

For a dollar or so, you can get a lightweight, packable poncho that you can fit in your pocket. It can save you from being soaked in a storm, because guess what: in the summer, if you get rained on and the sun comes out, your clothes aren’t going to dry as long as you wear them. You’ll be hot, wet, and get chafed. Take our word for this one, a packable poncho is worth its weight in gold, probably quite literally since they weigh only a few grams. Anyway, make room for it - and if space in your day pack is tight, stuff it into one of the pockets of your camo cargo shorts.

A Power Bank

Bring a charged power bank, just in case of emergencies. You never know when you might need a charge and a dead phone on the trail could leave you stranded. A power bank can save you from the unfortunate reality that could be presented by a dead battery.

A Compass and a Map

Look, if you’re hiking blazed trails, you should never have to pull out a compass, a map, or a GPS, but the former two you should never, ever go without because they are your backup if you ever get lost, and you don’t need power to work them. Never go without.

A Good Knife

Like a compass, you might never need to draw a knife on a day hike. But if you need to stop for a snack, make an improvised tripod for cooking over a fire, or just cut up some old cordage, you’ll need a knife - and you’ll be glad you had one. Never go into the woods without one.

A Flashlight with Spare Batteries

Bring at least one flashlight with spare batteries (if it has a rechargeable battery, make sure you have a charging cable so you can use the power bank as a backup). Again, you shouldn’t need a flashlight if you’re only out for the day, but it’s always better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Basic First Aid Essentials

Never go into the woods without some basic first aid essentials. Bandages, medical tape, disinfectant, moleskins, and vaseline or chapstick should suffice for a day trip. You might also want to bring along some over the counter analgesics like aspirin or ibuprofen as a hedge against trail-spawned aches and pains.

Bear Spray

Last but not least, there are a lot of black bears in our area of the country. Wear a bear bell, and have some bear spray in your pack. Like some of the other things on this list, you should never need to reach for this one, but again, it’s always better to have it and not need it. Be prepared, be bear aware.

Hiking Essentials, Jungle Boots, Camo Cargo Shorts and More: Everything You Need for a Day Trip

Gearing up for a day trip in NEPA? We have what you need. Shop our online collection or visit us in Hawley to gear up before you get out there!

Either way, it never hurts to be prepared. A time of crisis can strike at any moment, and the time to be getting ready for a storm is not when the threat is imminent. It is when the skies are clear.

Nevertheless, it’s never too late to start preparing, and food supplies are a critical element of any collection of prepper supplies.

This short post will break down some considerations.

What Foods to Stock, and How to Store Them

Generally speaking, foods that are preserved, or those which have long shelf lives, are the best ones for emergency preparedness. Perishable foods are the worst. With that said, here are some categories of foods and other supplies that are a good idea.

• Dry goods: Flour, sugar, wheat germ and other grain meals, cereal, and dried nuts are all great bets. These last a long time in dry environments, which makes them viable for emergency preparedness. The high oil content of nuts makes them oxidize relatively quickly compared to other dried goods, however, and you must take extra steps to protect your dry goods from vermin.
• Freeze dried foods: Freeze drying is a method of preparation that removes the moisture from food, converting even perishable items into longer-lasting versions of themselves. Many MREs are freeze-dried.
• Frozen goods: Effectively any food can be preserved by freezing, and freezing is a good way to preserve perishable goods like meat, fruit, and vegetables. The problem with freezing is that if the power goes out, you lose your stores.
• Canned goods: All in all, canned goods are the best for emergency preparedness because they are inherently sealed against vermin and spoilage and have the longest shelf lives. Remember, in many cases even an “expired” can of food will still be good to eat.

• Butter: Butter is rich in calories and nutrients and is longer lasting than other dairy products. Clarified butter will last a year or longer in the fridge, and even several months at room temperature.
• Peanut butter: It’s shelf stable for months if not years, and rich in calories and nutrients. You will have to take extra care to protect it from pests, however.
• Honey: Honey is one of the rare foods that has effectively an infinite shelf life, and it is rich in calories.
• Vinegar: Vinegar is an excellent prepper supply because it has many uses, such as its use as a general purpose cleaner. With respect to emergency preparedness, vinegar can be used to make an acidic brine for pickling low-acid foods that otherwise wouldn’t be safe to process in a hot water bath canner.
• Powdered drink mixes: Powdered drink mixes, like Gatorade mixes, are basically indefinitely shelf-stable and can provide much-needed electrolytes when mixed with water.
• Water: Not a food, but no collection of prepper supplies would be complete without it.

What Are the Best Food Prepper Supplies

(And Methods of Food Preservation)

In addition to the foods themselves, it helps to have some prepper supplies around the house that can help you preserve what you grow or buy.

• Canners: A hot water bath canner can make it easy for you to preserve high acid foods (like pickles and jams) at home. A pressure canner is necessary for meats and low-acid foods. For basic hot water bath canning, you’ll need a canner, rack, jars, lids, and rings. It also helps to have a few other basic water bath canning supplies like a jar lifter, lid wand, and funnel.
• Salt: Salting is an effective method of preserving perishable foods like meats. This can be effective if you don’t have a canner or cannot freeze your meat, plus salt is an essential nutrient. No special equipment or prepper supplies are needed to salt and preserve foods.
• A dehydrator: A dehydrator can be used to preserve perishable items like meats, fruits, and vegetables. They will not last as long as canned foods, but drying them can buy you time. You’ll need a dehydrator and you may need special vacuum sealing bags, along with access to power.
• Plastic wrap: Wrapping your meats and other fresh foods before freezing can help protect them from freezer burn.
• Airtight jars and plasticware: These will help protect your foods, fresh or otherwise, from spoilage due to air exposure; they can also help protect them from pests.

Gear Up Here with Prepper Supplies

Here for prepper supplies? We carry them. Take a look through our full collection via the previous link and let us know if you have any questions before you buy.

While you’re here, if you’re interested in what other sorts of prepper supplies you should be stockpiling, we’ve published two other posts on the topic recently. Check out our two part series on essential preparedness supplies, parts one and two.

Also make sure to check out our guide on bug out bag essentials - the types of knives and what to pack.

With that said, there’s no reason you can’t find quality in kids’ combat boots, provided you know what to look for.

Here are some of the main ways to assess quality in kids’ combat boots - and by the way, the pointers outlined here are just as applicable to adult combat boots, too, so keep them in mind the next time you’re shopping for yourself.

Upper Construction and Material

The first thing to consider in a pair of kids’ combat boots is the upper material. This is the main determinant of the comfort and quality of the boots, and it will also dictate the conditions with which they can be used favorably, as well as how they should be cared for.

Combat boots are commonly made with leather uppers. Avoid synthetic leather as it is impossible to condition and maintain and will eventually crack no matter what you do.

The best grade of leather is full grain, followed by top grain. Genuine leather is better than fake leather, but inferior to the other grades. Without proper conditioning it will separate.

Combat boots are also often made with mesh or canvas panels, as this material is porous and quick drying, making it suitable in hot, wet environments. Cotton canvas is preferable to synthetics, but sometimes a ballistic nylon mesh is used, and that can be suitable in some conditions. Cotton is generally tougher, however.

If the boots will be used in the winter, consider also insulation and waterproofing. You can overlook this in jungle boots, however, as they will not be insulated.

Hardware

The next thing you will want to consider is the hardware used in the construction of the boots, particularly with respect to the eyelets.

Some combat boots may be made with fabric loops instead of eyelets, as these are more affordable to produce. On light-use shoes these may be considered acceptable but they should be avoided in combat boots, because when they rip they will be effectively impossible to repair.

That means you should stick with metal eyelets. There are two types; actual eyelets and speed hooks.

Actual eyelets, which require you to pass the laces through a hole in the upper fortified with a metal grommet, are not as quick or easy to use, but offer an excellent, secure fit. The jump boot pictured above has eyelets all the way to the top of the boot shaft and has no speed hooks.

By contrast, speed hooks make it much easier to lace and unlace the boots, but when poorly fitted and cinched, make it easier for the laces to come undone.

Really, it depends on how proficient your child is with lacing, as either eyelets and speed hooks (or a combination) can be appropriate in a pair of kids combat boots.

Is There a Welt?

This is one of the single most important things to look at before you buy any pair of kids’ combat boots. Actually, it should be something you look for before you buy any pair of shoes, period.

Look at where the sole and upper come together. There should be a strip of material, usually leather, wedged between the upper and sole, and you should be able to see it.

This is called a welt, and it both protects the upper and ensures that when the sole wears down, you can resole the boots. There is more than one type of welt but two of the best quality welts are Goodyear and Storm welts.

A welt is not the only thing to look for here, though, as some shoes and boots have what looks like a welt, but which is actually a fake.

One thing you can look for to check to make sure it’s not a fake is to look at the stitching used. There should be actual, physical stitching running around the border of where the sole meets the upper.

On some boots, the stitching is fake, just like the welt. Check it to make sure it’s real and it passes through the welt and into the sole. On some boots, the stitching not only goes through the welt, but through to the bottom of the sole. You can see this if you flip the boot over.

If it goes through the bottom of the sole, that’s a guarantee that your stitching is legitimate (you can see this in the image pictured above).

Where there is no stitching, adhesive is used to attach the sole to the upper. This is a categorically inferior method and results in soles that sooner or later will detach from the upper, at which point the boots will need to be replaced.

Sole Style

Lastly, you should take a look at the style of sole used. There are all different materials that will not be covered here; what will be covered are the two main styles of soles used in the construction of kids’ combat boots.

One of the two most common styles of soles are wedge soles, so named because they usually look like a wedge, wider at the heel and slightly narrower at the toe. Wedge soles are usually flat on the bottom, or have a little bit of texture, but are mostly flat.

These are designed for comfort and traction on smooth, finished surfaces, like pavement and indoor flooring. They are best used in urban, suburban, and other developed environments.

On the other end of the spectrum you have lug soles, which have deep, aggressive tread patterns. Lug soles (pictured above) are better on earth, sand and mud than wedge soles because they dig in and afford better traction. However, they’re not as suitable on finished surfaces because although they offer good traction, they will wear down faster.

The long and short of it is this: if the boots will be used primarily in the woods, get a pair with lug soles. If they’ll be used in urban and suburban environments, get a pair with wedge soles.

Other Things to Look for

The things already mentioned in this guide should give you the knowledge you need to make an informed decision on what to look for when buying kids combat boots. However, here are a few things to look for:

• Waxed laces, as these will last longer and hold knots better than laces that are not waxed.
• Waterproofing or insulation.
• A steel shank in the sole, which will extend the life of the boots and provide better rebound and support.
• Puncture resistant soles.
• Oil and grease resistance.
• Electrical hazard ratings (rare in combat boots but common in work boots).
• Steel or composite toe protection (also rare in combat boots but common in work boots).

Shop Kids’ Combat Boots Here

Here because you’re looking for a solid pair of kids’ combat boots? This short guide has most of what you need to know, but if you still have questions as you shop our catalog, get in touch with us at 877-612-1253 and we’ll be more than happy to help you out.

So we rounded up some of the top questions regarding utility belts and took note of the answers. If you’re wondering something about a belt like this, you’re in the right place.

What Is a Utility Belt?

Broadly speaking, a utility belt is any belt that has pockets, clips, or other parts that makes it easy to store gear while maintaining a high degree of access to it.

The most widely recognized belts are duty belts, which are worn by law enforcement agents, but first responders, runners, firefighters, and others might also wear similar belts.

With that said, the gear you carry on such a belt will vary considerably based on what your employment is, or with respect to the discipline you are pursuing.

Why Use One?

There are numerous use cases for these types of belts, not necessarily in replacement to other duty gear like a vest, but as a complement to one.

The greatest selling point of a duty belt is that it keeps your gear organized and within easy reach at your hip level.

In addition, a belt gives you extra real estate to distribute the weight of your gear without having to store it all on a chest rig, while offering the added benefit that it provides easier access than a pack or pouch.

How to Wear a Utility Belt?

One of these belts can be worn in much the same fashion as any other belt. There isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way to wear one.

Depending on the style and design of the belt, it may be intended to be worn through your pants’ belt loops, or not.

Some duty belts are made with quick-attach buckles that enable them to secure around your hips without the need for belt loops to keep them in place. These can be worn over the top of your pants.

How to Fasten a Utility Belt?

That depends on the style of the belt. Some belts may have conventional fasteners, others are made with quick-release buckles that make it possible to wear them with basically any type of pants.

What to Carry in a Utility Belt?

What you’ll want to carry in your utility belt will depend heavily on your need for the belt. If you need a duty belt for your line of work, let your occupation dictate the required gear.

If you wear one of these belts for running or some other recreational discipline, what you will carry will be determined by the requirements of your pursuit.

If you’re wearing it as a tool belt, your trade will determine what to carry. For instance, if you’re a carpenter you might carry a box of nails, a framing hammer, a carpenter’s pencil, and a tape measure, among other things.

If you’re just wondering what EDC gear is good to have on hand and within easy reach, here’s a good place to start:

• A sidearm and spare magazines
• A small flashlight
• A multitool
• A knife
• A pen
• A pry tool

How Do You Organize Your Belt?

How you organize a duty belt should be determined by what gear takes precedence for fastest access.

For instance, if you carry a sidearm or a knife, that should be on your dominant side for easiest access.

In addition to speed of access, you should also consider ergonomics, which is a function of weight distribution. You shouldn’t keep all the heavy items on one side of the belt.

How to Make a Utility Belt?

Any belt can be transformed into a utility belt provided you outfit it with clips or pouches that ensure rapid access to your gear.

If you’re particularly enterprising you might also be able to make your own utility belt from leather, ballistic nylon, or even by weaving one from paracord or a similar material.

How Do You Decide What to Keep on Your Belt and What to Keep in Your Pockets?

What you keep on your belt and what you keep in your vest, pack or elsewhere on your person should be determined by what you need unfettered access to.

Your most essential duty items should be stored on your belt, and the rest in your vest or pack.

Where to Store Your EDC Gear When You Run Out of Room?

If you run out of room on your belt, you can store the rest of your essential gear in your pockets, or else in your jacket, vest, or pack.

Where to Buy a Utility Belt?

Looking for a high-quality utility belt? You’re in the right place. Check out our complete collection and get in touch with us if you have any questions about our products.

For our purposes, we’re going to focus specifically on knives, why your bug out bag needs one, and what types of knives there are. So pack up the camo shirt and first aid kit - but don’t forget to bring along a good blade.

Types of Knives and What They’re Good for

There are all different types of knives out there, some of which are much more practical for EDC and bug out bag essentials lists than others.

There’s some gray area between “style” of knife, knife profile, and other features, but we’re going to summarize this as succinctly as possible.

• Wharncliffe and sheepsfoot style blades: A wharncliffe style blade, or a “wharnie” has a spine that slopes forward to meet the point. The edge is usually straight. Sometimes they are also called sheepsfoot blades; usually the point of a sheepsfoot is not as sharp as a wharnie. These are excellent for general utility as the tip is very strong and generally unlikely to break. (The knife below might be categorized as a sheepsfoot.)

                           

• Cleavers: Cleavers are generally categorized by a large, heavy blade with no point. This makes them excellent for chopping and prying but not great for piercing. Still, for camp craft and food prep, they can be very practical.

• Machetes/Bolos: A whole article could be written just about different styles of machetes, but generally, a machete is a large knife which is used for trail blazing and light clearing. They’re usually too large to be used for fine detail work, though.

• Drop point knives: Probably the most practical all-around profile, a knife with a drop point has a spine that drops gently to meet the point; in most cases, the belly is swept (otherwise it would be a sheepsfoot or a wharncliffe). Drop point blades are excellent for general utility, camp chores, food prep, game and fish cleaning, and much more. (A drop point is pictured below.)

                    

• Straight-back knives: Straight back knives are popular because this is the profile used by Mora. It is just what it sounds like - a knife with a gently curved belly and a straight back that meets it at the tip. Like drop point blades they are excellent for general utility.

• Clip point knives: A clip point blade has a spine with a swedge or a “clip” taken out of it, producing a very fine point. They look cool, and are good for detail work, but are prone to tip breakage.

• Spear point knives: In a spear point profile, the belly and spine slope towards each other. The profile is bilaterally symmetrical, making it effectively impossible to tell which side is the edge but for looking at the handle. Spear point blades are also highly utilitarian and make an excellent choice for bug out bags. (The image below is of a spear point.)

• Hawkbill style blades: In a hawkbill style blade, also known as a talon or a karambit, the edge is curved inward. They are useful for drawcuts, which makes them practical for harvesting and pruning, but not much else. Also, it’s difficult to sharpen the blade. Like clip points, they look cool but are not well-suited to SHTF scenarios. Stick with a generalist like a drop point, straight back, or spear point.

• Skinners/Trailing point: These knives have wide, swept bellies and are useful for long, sweeping cuts. This makes them excellent for skinning (hence the name) and breaking down game. Slightly more specialized than some of the other profiles mentioned here but excellent nonetheless.

• Leaf blades: In a leaf blade, the width of the blade profile generally increases away from the hilt, then tapers towards the point. This makes these profiles useful for chopping and slicing. Many Spyderco knives feature a leaf blade. They are somewhat specialized but also practical for survival and general preparedness.

• Filet knives: A filet knife generally has a long, thin, flexible blade with a slightly swept edge and a fine point. They are highly specialized and useful only for fileting and preparing cuts of meat. As a general rule, they are too specialized for SHTF situations, but can be a good secondary or tertiary choice.

• Neck knives: Any knife can be a neck knife if you wear it around your neck, but as a general rule they are very small. They can be good as an EDC option for general utility, provided you get one with a generalist blade profile.

• Needle point knives/daggers: Needle pointed blades, like stilettos, are generally very narrow and designed for piercing and penetration. Some are sharpened on both edges. Unsurprisingly, the points are too fragile to be practically used for EDC. Save the precious space in your bug out bag for something more generalized.

Fixed or Folding?

There are some great folders out there, and for EDC and general utility, a folder is a great bet, since they’re discreet and you don’t need a sheath. Nonetheless, as some knife users say, folders are “pre-broken.” For serious work, you can’t beat a fixed blade.

But as you may know, two is one and one is none, so really, rather than replacing your folder with a fixed blade, pack one (or more) of each in your bug out bag. Then, you can use each for different jobs.

What Type Is Best If We’re Talking Bug Out Bag Essentials?

The more specialized profiles are generally not the best for a bug out bag checklist, either because of limited utility or impractical design. Similarly, a knife that is highly specialized, like a filet knife, though it is extremely useful for its intended application, would not be a good choice for a bug out bag if you could only have one knife.

To illustrate the point, a filet knife will do a better job at processing harvested game than a folder with a drop point, but a drop point would do better at carving a spoon, splitting a small log, preparing food - and other tasks.

Among the most effective of general purpose profiles are drop points, spear points, skinners, leaf blades, and straight back knives. If you must carry only one, carry one of these, and make it a fixed blade.

Why You Should Have More Than One Bladed Tool

With that being said, we need to remind you again that two is one and one is none. No bug out bag checklist should admonish you to carry only one bladed tool and so we won’t.

Don’t just pack one. Pack two or three different knives that excel at different jobs. For instance, carry a small fixed blade, a larger fixed blade, and perhaps a small folder with a swept blade. Vary up the blade profiles if possible, that way you’ll have different jobs for different tasks.

Moreover, beyond a knife, you should carry a machete or a large camp knife in your bug out bag, along with a shovel, a hatchet, and a saw, at minimum. There are other bladed tools that are useful but this is a list of the absolute bug out bag essentials.

Creating a Bug Out Bag Checklist

In addition to bladed tools, there’s so much else you should also carry for general preparedness. If you’re wondering what to stock, check out this supplementary bug out bag checklist:

• Important documents and ID
• Maps/orienteering essentials like a compass
• Cash
• Batteries
• Flashlights (more than one)
• Portable power banks
• First aid essentials
• Food (MREs) and water
• Medicine
• Multitools
• Duct tape
• Candles
• Carabiners
• Paracord
• Small sewing kit
• Toiletries
• Sunscreen and insect repellent
• Fire starting essentials (matches, lighters, etc.)
• Spare clothes and socks (drop the camo shirt here)
• A small tarp if you can spare the room

This is just a quick bug out bag checklist and in no way is intended to supplant any larger, much more thorough guide. It is just a place to start so you can get thinking about what to bring and be properly prepared - beyond the camo shirt and shorts.

Still, it is a good jumping off point and contains good information. For more information on essential prepper supplies, please see our prepper supply checklists: parts one and two.

One of the most important pieces of gear you’ll need to get together for your kids, whether they’re little tykes or getting ready to graduate from high school, is a solid backpack.

If last year’s pack is on the way out the door, or has seen just a few too many “back to school seasons” gear up with a new one.

If you get the right one - like a MOLLE backpack or a camo backpack - your kid will be able to use it for more than just school.

Why MOLLE Backpacks Are a Solid Bet for Back to School

Not familiar with “MOLLE” yet? No worries - unlike ALICE packs, they’re actually relatively new on the scene, and didn’t really see widespread use until after 2000, although they were introduced slightly earlier.

Pronounced “Molly,” MOLLE stands for “modular lightweight load-bearing equipment” and consists of a system of webbing straps and loops that are designed to be modular and configurable, making it possible to expand the system through clips, buttons, and hook and loop closures.

MOLLE backpacks make excellent school packs, first and foremost, because of their versatility. While they’re usually thoughtfully organized on the interior, it’s the exterior that really highlights their expandability. Because of this versatility, it also makes it easier to distribute the weight of heavy loads - not necessarily something you’ll deal with at school, but a nice feature for extracurricular activities.

Pens and other school supplies can be clipped to the webbing on the outside for easier access, not to mention this configuration will help prevent small items from getting lost in the dusky recesses of the bottom of the pack.

Also, you can attach other packs and pouches onto the outside of the pack using the same system - which also afford easy access, not to mention you can really open up the bag’s volume with an easy and reversible customization.

This is one of the things that makes MOLLE backpacks great, and not just as school packs. Because of their versatility, they can be used on the weekend as camping, hunting, hiking, boating, airsoft and paintball packs - or for a million and one other uses. Really what matters is what you pack in it, and a MOLLE backpack is endlessly configurable.

Beyond that, there’s also the undeniable cool factor, which in this case is not just your typical cool, but a “tacticool” factor, towards which some students naturally gravitate.

Either way, a MOLLE backpack isn’t going to be a match for every kid, but if your kids are into outdoor sports, general preparedness, or just a backpack that can adapt to changing needs, MOLLE packs are a solid bet.

The All-Around Camo Backpack

Not sure if a MOLLE backpack is the right bet for your kid but you’re still interested in a backpack that he or she can use for more than just school? Get a camo backpack!

Camo backpacks don’t just make a statement. While camo can be a great fashion statement, it’s just as important to recognize that camouflage was designed with a purpose in mind - and it wasn’t to be seen; in fact, it was the opposite!

Say, for instance, your kid is into hunting, airsoft, or paintball. In those scenarios, having a camo backpack is a real asset, especially if it’s matched to the camo of the rest of their clothing and gear.

We sell a wide range of camo backpacks representing a good cross section of many different camo patterns, including vintage US Woodland, Vietnam tiger stripe camo, digital camo, and much more.

Whether your kid is a bowhunter that needs to sneak up close for a shot or just likes to play in airsoft competition on the weekends, a solid camo pack can be a real asset. Make it a MOLLE backpack and you get concealment, expandability and improved access to gear all rolled into one package.

Now, let’s say you’re looking for a versatile pack that can be used for more than school but don’t want to commit to the (ironic) flashiness of camo? Consider a different pack in a solid, earth-tone color like FDE, olive drab or OD Green. These can be just as useful in the field as they are in the class, and can also aid in concealment when engaged in outdoor activities.

And the best part is that a single camo MOLLE pack can be just as useful in the classroom as it is in the field, provided you pack it wisely and enable your kid to expand and reduce the overall footprint as determined by the circumstances.

What to Pack in Your Kid’s Back to School Pack?

Once you settle on a new backpack for your kid, whether it’s a camo pack or a MOLLE backpack, you’re going to have to make sure you send them off with the essentials for a successful first day back at school. Here are some must-pack items:

• Pencils, pens, and paper
• Pencil case
• Erasers
• Highlighters
• Planner
• Notebooks and binders with loose leaf paper
• Personal items (phone, charger, etc.)
• Calculator
• Ruler
• Textbooks (if necessary, schools often provide them)
• Reusable water bottle
• Hand sanitizer
• Basic first aid essentials

Many of the items your kid will need for school will only be revealed after the syllabi have been distributed. Teachers will make lists of necessary items that will vary according to the subject matter - understandably, art classes, science classes, and shop classes all have different needs.

But for the first day, even the first week, that crash-list should set your student up for success!

Shop ALICE Packs, MOLLE Backpacks And More

Before you can pack up your kid’s back-to-school backpack, you need to get it, and we carry tons of useful and unique designs and patterns. Shop camo backpacks, MOLLE packs, and more in a wide range of sizes and designs, along with ALICE packs and other historical rigs.

We have what you need for back to school - get it here and plan ahead for a successful first day back!

Well, given that Lake Wallenpaupack is right in our backyard, that it’s one of the most visited lakes in Pennsylvania, and that there are several boat rental marinas right on the lake, we figured some anglers wouldn’t be shore-bound for long.

With that said, and though much of what you need for fishing you will also need for boating, there are some additional things you’ll want to bring with you on a cruise, if only for the day.

Throw your favorite camo shirt and shorts in your duffel and get ready to start here with what you’ll need for a safe and productive day on the water. 

The Legal Requirements, Per the Coast Guard

First we need to take a look at the legal requirements, as per the United States Coast Guard and the Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission.

The USCG has separate requirements for vessels depending on their length. Regardless, these requirements concern the presence of flotation devices, fire extinguishers, visual distress signals, and sound producing devices. For detailed information according to vessel size, please see BoatUS.org’s breakdown.

As per the Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission, all vessels require at least one wearable PFD (personal flotation device) for each person on board. Vessels 16 feet or longer must also have one USCG-approved Type IV PFD - a ring buoy or seat cushion.

For more information, visit the USCG website or the Pennsylvania Fish & Boat Commission’s website.

While most rental marinas will equip their vessels with what you legally need to have on the water, there are other tools, equipment, accessories and safety gear you will want to bring along anyway, so let’s cover these.

What Else You Should Have

You’ll want to be well-prepared, even for a day-long float. It’s much better to have the following than to need them and not have them:

• A fire extinguisher: Ask the marina for one if there isn’t one on the boat already.
• An oar or paddle: Hopefully you’ll never need it, but you’d be surprised that you can row a pretty lard boat when needed.

                                

• Flares: Flares can be necessary to get attention from other boaters in the event of engine failure or other vessel distress.
• A whistle: Whistles can also be used to attract the attention of other boaters on the water if you need assistance.
• A flashlight: Always carry at least one flashlight, even if you only plan to be on the water during daylight hours. Not only is a flashlight a life saver in the dark, but it can be used as an all-around white light if you get stranded on the water in the dark.
• A first-aid kit: Always have a first-aid kit on the water. It should contain at minimum gauze, bandages, and disinfectants to treat minor wounds.
• Sunscreen: On the water, you won’t get any relief from the sun so it’s important always to have sunscreen on board for all with you.
• Bug repellent: The bugs that bother you will depend on the season and the prevailing wind, but if they’re about, on the water you will have nowhere to hide.
• Floating sunglasses: You need sunglasses to avoid snow-blindness (which happens on the water, too) but you should get floating sunglasses specifically because most don’t float. That’s a lesson better not learned the hard way. Just trust us.
• A hat: Even with sunglasses, the sun and glare can be punishing. Having a hat can keep you partially shaded even in unforgivingly bright conditions.
• Protective clothing: This means more than just your favorite camo shirt. If it’s cold, you’ll want an extra layer to keep you warm as well as gloves and a hat and earmuffs. If it’s sunny, pack a change of clothing in case what you’re wearing gets wet and you want some protection from the sun. Also, where applicable, don’t forget your bathing suits!
• Appropriate footwear: Despite what you may think, open-toed shoes are not good for a boat. You want to be supported and protected with flexible, light deck shoes that are quick-drying and still afford you a good grip and sensitivity on the deck - which will always be moving.
• Rainwear: Even if the skies look clear, pack at least a poncho or a rain jacket for each person on board. Better safe than sorry!
• Snacks and water: Water is most important here as you will get dehydrated sitting in the sun all day, but bring along some dry snacks too.
• Towels: Bring plenty along for everyone on board; you may need them.
• Your fishing tackle and bait: Whatever you’re fishing with, be sure you have enough of it. If you favor one type of lure, bring five, and always bring along plenty of spare terminal tackle and bait.
• A dry bag: Or several, if you will. You need to have a place to keep things dry, especially if the boat does not have a cabin.
• A compass and chart: Modern navigation aids and GPS-based systems like Navionics are great, but nothing can replace a chart and a compass. Best to have them, even if you never even take them out.
• An anchor: Do not assume there is an anchor on the boat. Ask the marina if there’s one and ask them to show you where it is. Also do not assume it is fast to the vessel. Always check the lines before throwing the anchor overboard.

Before Shoving Off…

• Ask the marina about any applicable local rules or regulations (sometimes there are seasonal rules; for instance, when on the water in Pennsylvania on a vessel 16 feet or less, all boaters are required to wear a life vest between November 1st and April 30).
• Ask the marina about any local hazards in the water, or areas that rentals are not permitted.
• Inquire about the vessel’s draft and how to operate all controls.
• Check to see that all lights, trim, and other mechanical controls are in order.

                                  

Gear Up Here!

As you can see, there is a whole lot besides your camo shirt that you’ll want to bring with you for a day on the water. We carry a good deal of it, so stock up here before getting ready to leave port!

Camouflage: it isn’t just about camo shirts and camo cargo pants that show you rep the off-the-grid, ungovernable lifestyle while you’re in town.

Sure, some love camo fashion. But it’s about so much more than that, and that use is secondary anyway.

It was developed first and foremost, to obscure the wearer, either from hostile enemies or from a target quarry while in the field.

So, let’s take a closer look at how camouflage works, types of camo, and then some popular patterns, like MultiCam and tiger stripe camo.

How Camouflage Conceals You (Plus Types of Camo)

All camouflage hinges on a pattern consisting of a color palette that is used to create two basic design elements: macros and micros.

The macros of the pattern are the larger blocks of color; they can be actual visual elements, or just large areas of shades or a large shape.

Micros are the smaller elements of the pattern, and are often discernible shapes or in the case of some modern patterns, actual images of leaves, twigs, and such.

Some animals can only see in a limited color palette. This makes the color of the camo equally important to the diffusion of micros and macros across its surface. It’s also why camo orange patterns, like Mossy Oak Blaze, work for deer; they can’t see orange well, so even though the color is apparent to other hunters (improving safety) the deer can’t see it for the other elements that break up the wearer’s outline.

There are numerous categories of camouflage, into which each specific pattern can more or less be arranged. Some will fit into more than one. Some of the more popular types of patterns include:

• Brushstroke: One of the oldest types of camouflage, brushstroke patterns are characterized by wide macros and splashes of color, overlaid by sharply lined micros - like a brushstroke, hence the name.
• Twigs and leaves: Twig and leaf patterned camouflage are characterized by micros that look like actual elements of the woods or landscape; twigs, leaves, limbs, even flowers, rocks and berries. Many Realtree and Mossy Oak patterns follow this direction.
• Digital camo: Digital camouflage is, contrary to popular belief, not necessarily a pixelated pattern, but one developed with the help of a computer’s algorithms. MARPAT and Multicam are, for instance, technically digital camouflage patterns.
• Abstract: Abstract patterns are those in which no actual discernible elements are noticeable. Kryptek and Multicam, along with many other digital camouflage patterns are therefore also considered abstract.
• Heritage: Heritage patterns are loosely defined as those that are either vintage or based on vintage patterns. As a result, Flecktarn, Splittertarnmuster, U.S. Woodland, Tiger Stripe Camo, and other old military patterns are considered heritage patterns.

Popular Camo Patterns

Now let’s talk about some popular camouflage patterns, some of which remain popular not only in fashion, but among hunters and outdoorsmen.

U.S. Woodland

Used from 1981 to 2006, and still widely copied all over the world, U.S. Woodland, which incorporates large, leafy macros and micros in four colors (dark brown, light brown, black and green) is one of the most popular camo patterns ever developed.

Despite the fact that it is so recognizable, it is also an effective pattern for hunters, especially under heavy foliage in eastern forests in the spring and fall.

Multicam

Multicam has been called the “all terrain tire” of the camouflage world because it is designed to blend into nearly any background, under any lighting conditions, at nearly any time of year - except snowy conditions, that is.

This is a cutting edge (and new) pattern that performs well both in the eastern woodlands as well as in the scrub and high terrain of the west.

Tiger Stripe Camo

Tiger stripe camo was initially developed during the Vietnam War and is actually considered a brushstroke type camo pattern, as detailed above. The horizontal slashes of blacks, browns and greens performed well in the dense jungles and thickets of southeast Asia.

Today, tiger stripe camo remains popular among those that appreciate heritage patterns - though it also performs well in densely forested areas or brush, assuming the color patterns aligns with the backdrop and lighting conditions.

Kryptek

Kryptek is a unique class of patterns of camouflage (there are more than one) which uses sharp polygonal macros and micros that are crisp in some areas and distorted and diffused in others, interspersed with contrasting areas of deeply saturated and washed out colors. The effect is that nowhere in the pattern is anything quite recognizable, which proves to be quite effective at distorting and erasing the outline of the wearer. Kryptek patterns can be effective in basically any terrain, provided that the color palette aligns with the backdrop and lighting conditions.

Realtree Edge

Realtree Edge is one of the most realistic camo patterns out there and is an extremely popular pattern among upland and woodland hunters here in the east. Macros and micros of leaves and twigs are nearly photorealistic and the mostly brown palette is perfect for late fall and early winter.

Realtree Timber

Realtree Timber is another popular pattern among hunters; the color palette is gray to brown, and contains photorealistic macros and micros that look just like tree bark. It can be effective in the woods at any time of year, especially if you are hunting in a treestand or stand hunting at the base of a tree.

Mossy Oak Shadow Grass

Mossy Oak Shadow Grass captures the likeness of swamp and marsh grass with realistic macros and micros with a washed out beige color palette that brooks some darker elements. It’s highly popular and effective among waterfowl hunters in the fall and winter.

Mossy Oak Bottomland

Mossy Oak Bottomland is slightly more abstract than its other patterns, and despite the lack of photorealistic micros, does look a lot like tree bark. This makes it popular not only in flooded timber but in greener upland woods. When employed appropriately, it can be effective throughout multiple seasons, and for many different types of game.

Mossy Oak Country DNA

Mossy Oak Country DNA is Mossy Oak’s answer to Realtree Edge, except it is a bit greener. While they both capture photorealistic elements of the eastern woods - twigs and leaves, primarily - Mossy Oak Country DNA is darker and greener, mimicking the dappled light on the forest through the green leaves. This makes it more effective in the late summer, early fall, and spring - perfect for early whitetail bow seasons and for spring gobblers, at least among hunters in the eastern woods.

Shop Camo Shirts, Cargo Shorts, Outerwear and More Here!

Hopefully you found this short guide to the different types of popular camo patterns out there helpful - but it is just a start. There are scores of other popular patterns, if not hundreds, for you to discover. Remember to keep in mind the color of your backdrop as well as the lighting conditions, and the game you will be pursuing, when you choose a pattern.

Otherwise, we carry camo shirts, camo cargo shorts, BDU jackets, and plenty of tiger stripe camo - so get what you need here.

Don’t worry. We have your back.

What You Need: The Basics

Whether you’ll be bank bound or on a boat will make a slight difference in the gear, tackle, and other equipment you need to be successful while fishing. With that said, this short guide will focus on the tackle and tools, specifically, you’ll need, regardless of the species you’re pursuing.

• Fishing outfits: No, we don’t mean clothes. You’ll want at least one rod and reel per person and if we’re being honest, you should probably pack a few spares. A single broken spring or rod tip can put you out of commission if you don’t have backups. Also, be sure to use rod and reel combos that make sense. You won’t be effective fishing for catfish if all you have is ultralight gear!
• A spool of spare line: Always, always, always bring along at least one spare spool of line. Even if you have spare rods and reels, you can’t use them if you can’t spool them up.
• Terminal tackle: What you need will be determined by what you’re fishing for, but in general, this means leader material, swivels, hooks, sinkers, teasers (if you’re using them) and bobbers. Always have plenty of spares.

• Lures: You may be fishing with bait, but it never hurts to be prepared with some lures that you can throw while you’re waiting for a bite. Besides, there actually are times when lures outfish bait. Our recommendation? Have a few spinners, plugs, and plastics. Rooster Tail, Blue Fox and Mepp’s spinners are great, as are Rapala Husky Jerk plugs. For plastics, there’s no better lure than a curly tail grub, 2” or 3” in any color. Make sure you have a few ¼” or ⅛” jigheads to fish these. Also - don’t just buy one of anything. Buy in triplicate if not more. Trust us, if you haven’t lost lures before, it’s just a matter of time.
• Bait and plenty of it, plus whatever you need to keep it fresh or alive: If you are fishing with bait, you need a cooler to keep it fresh, if not alive. Remember, nightcrawlers will die in hot temperatures. A few ice cubes dropped on the top of the soil can keep them fresh. If fishing minnows, keep them in a baitwell with fresh, aerated water. Fresh bait can definitely make a difference.
• A tackle box: You’ll need one to store your terminal tackle, lures, and tools.
• Pliers: A knife may be the most important general-purpose tool of all time, but when fishing, you must always bring at least one pair of pliers. Pliers are critical for getting a good grip on deeply set hooks that would otherwise kill the fish.
• Hook disgorgers: Hook disgorgers can also be useful for helping to unhook fish, but always have a pair of pliers too.
• Knives: Knives cut line, bait, and will enable you to process your catch, whatever your target species is. Always have a few in your box. You’ll also want at least one dedicated bait knife or utility knife, and one filet knife the sole use of which is cleaning your catch.
• Lights: Even if you don’t plan on being out at night, you need emergency flashlights. Two is one and one is none, remember. Also, some people prefer to fish for cats and walleye (popular up here!) at night.
• Waterproof gear: The forecast might look nice, but we all know the weather can change. Either wear waterproof clothing or have at least one poncho per person in your pack.
• Sunglasses: It’s a good idea never to fish without sunglasses, not only because polarized glasses (specifically) cut glare and can enable you to see better under the surface of the water, but because they protect your eyes from hooks. Our vote goes for floating sunglasses, if you can find them.
• Towels: You’ll want them to keep your hands and gear clean, but one bit of advice: never use a towel to handle a fish, ever. Towels strip off a fish’s slime coat which protects the fish against infection and disease.
• A landing net: You won’t always need it, but if you hook a trophy and have no other way to get it over the gunwale or to shore, you’ll be really mad that you didn’t bring one.
• Duct tape: Duct tape is great for making general fixes, but in this capacity, you can use it to wrap your casting finger (or thumb) to protect it from getting cut by the line whenever you’re casting heavy lures.
• First aid essentials: Always have basic first aid essentials when fishing, because you never know what might happen. You could get hooked, a pike could bite you, you might end up on the business end of a catfish spine - you never know.
• A ruler: Fishing for panfish or catfish? Then who cares - there’s no size limit. But, once your target quarry turns to some other sport, like bass or trout, to stay legal you need to be able to measure the size.
• Sunscreen: Better safe than sorry, you don’t want to burn out there.
• Bug repellent: Colder days are generally less buggy, but the Poconos are humid in the summer, and mosquitos can get thick. You’ll be glad you brought some bug repellent!
• Food and water: Always a good idea to have water with you when you’re out in the elements, and everyone feels better after a good snack.
• Licenses: In Pennsylvania, everyone over 16 needs a Fishing License (and 1, 3, and 7 day licenses are available, too). Also, you’ll need a Trout Stamp if fishing trout stocked waters or trout streams, so bear that in mind.

Load Up the Camo Cargo Shorts and Jacket Before You Take Off

Passing through on the way to your Poconos fishing destination? Get what you need for the great outdoors in our shop. We carry a wide range of outdoor gear not only for fishing but for hunting and camping, at competitive prices. Check out our collection of camo clothing while you’re here, too, including camo cargo shorts, shirts, hats, and outerwear. Make sure you have what you need before hitting the water, and tight lines.

But any list could be better, so we decided to update with a second installment of prepper supplies.

Are you ready?

No Further Adieu: More Prepper Supplies

If your bug out bag (or home) doesn’t have the following, go out of your way to get some. These are also essential prepper supplies.

• A canner: Not a must have, but a canner and some jars will give you the ability to preserve food at home. Also, canners are large and can be used for boiling water, cooking, and more.

• Water treatment tablets or a lifestraw: We did previously argue in favor of having water stockpiled, but supplies can run out. You should also have iodine tablets or some other kind of water treatment to treat water you find, or a lifestraw. Water filters are also a must.

• Power banks: Your electronics won’t last long when the power goes out. All power banks are valuable, but those that are solar powered or can be hand-cranked are the best of all because they let you access power when other sources are unreliable.

                                  

• Chargers: You can’t charge your phone or computer or radio if you don’t have a charging cable, even if you do have power.

• A shemagh scarf: A shemagh scarf, also known as a keffiyeh, is one of those marvelous pieces of clothing that can be used in a million and one ways. We’ve written about this before in our blog, too. Check it out.

• Waterproof cases: Dry boxes were on our previous list, but not waterproof phone cases or dry bags, both of which can be lifesavers.

• Blankets: Always be prepared with some spare blankets. They can keep you warm but you can also use them to fashion pillows, sleeping pads, and so much more.

• Tin cups/canteens: Tin is better than plastic because you can use them as impromptu cooking vessels, or to boil water to render it safe to drink.

• Ferrocerium rods: Our previous list did have fire starting equipment, but not specifically ferrocerium rods. These are a must-have on any list of prepper supplies as a single ferro rod can be struck thousands of times, giving you the power to make a fire almost anywhere so long as you have tinder. Dryer lint is great for that, by the way.

                       

• Seeds: Why seeds? Because if you really need to go off grid and grow your own food, you’ll need them. Get heirloom varieties only. With an heirloom plant, you can keep your seeds and grow new crops year after year; hybrids will not produce a viable crop from their offspring.

• Buckets: Buckets have a thousand and one uses we won’t go into here, ranging from collecting food to serving as a makeshift latrine.

• Super glue: Super glue is also really useful and can be used to glue holes in fabric and even seal wounds in a pinch. Very useful, all around.

• Plastic bags: Plastic bags can be used for food storage, for foraging, and for so much more.

                                   

• Paper and writing utensils: If it’s worth remembering, it’s worth writing down. If you can, get a pad that is waterproof and works in the rain, as well as a pen that will double as a kubotan.

• Cards and games: When stocking up on prepper supplies, it can be too easy to overlook the value of entertainment. Cards and board games may be able to help. Books are good too, but they are also expensive and heavy.

• WD-40: WD-40 is another one of those magic items that can be used for a million and different jobs, from lubrication to water displacement, to freeing stuck hardware.

• Glassbreakers or pry tools: Glassbreakers and pry tools are useful in a pinch if you lack a fully-stocked toolbox, which you should also have and which made an appearance on prepper supply list number one.

• Cash: How could we forget cash? You may need it when SHTF.

                     

• Sharpening stone: We remembered knives and tools on the first list, but not a sharpening stone, which you will need to keep your tools sharp.

• Picture wire: Picture wire, like duct tape, is marvelously utilitarian. You can use it to form hooks, fix broken joints and hinges, and even to make snares.

• Ponchos: Staying dry in wet weather is not easy and getting wet and cold can compromise your immune system. Stock some ponchos for emergencies.

• Old-school tea-light heaters: There are special inverted metal pots you can buy online that, when you burn a tea light under them, can heat a whole room. They’re pretty cool and definitely worth looking into.

• Latex gloves: These are good for any situation in which you might have to handle something that you might consider a biological risk or an infection risk.

• Maps of your area: You never know when you might need them.

• Important documents: This includes IDs, birth certificates, and anything else you might need from a legal perspective.

• Magnifying glass: Not only can a magnifying glass help you get a better look at splinters and things like that, but you can also use them to help you start a fire, giving them a whole lot of uses.

• Olive oil or vegetable oil: Oil is great for cooking, which is an important use here, but it is also a solid impromptu lubricant. You can also use oil on the skin to treat dryness (if you don’t have vaseline). Cooking oils can also be used as a source of light and heat if you don’t have candles.                                                                                      

• Canned food: Food was on our last list, but besides dry food, canned food will last practically forever, making it an essential prepper supply.

• Whistles: They’re useful for signaling, make sure you have a few whistles.

• Mirrors: Same here. Mirrors are also useful for signaling and can also be used to check out your back if you’ve been injured and don’t have a buddy to help.

• Mineral oil: Mineral oil, like cooking oil, is a great lubricant and can also prevent rust on exposed hardware. It can also double as a fuel source or as a lamp fuel for light and heat.

• Face masks: Face masks, like N95 masks, will protect you from many airborne pathogens and chemical threats. They should be in your bug out bag and are therefore vital prepper supplies.

Get These and Other Prepper Supplies Here

Armed with the information in this and our other list of prepper supplies, you now have 60+ essentials that you need in your home’s kit or bug out bag.

Get to it, and plug up any holes where you find them so you can be better prepared.

It’s relatively easy to see why this is the case, but something that doesn’t get quite as much press is what sort of holster you should carry the gun in, or, on a similar wavelength, what sort of concealed carry jacket you should wear.

As the latter influence access to your choice of a personal defense weapon, they are nearly as important if not every bit as important as what you carry in the first place.

So, take these considerations into account when you’re looking for a concealed carry jacket.

A Concealed Carry Jacket Should Have a Zipper, Not Buttons

There are lots of different styles of concealed carry jackets out there, but one big thing to look for is a jacket that does not have buttons.

There is a very good, very simple reason for this. Despite the fact that you might like the look and operation of buttons, they are not as easy to disengage as a zipper is. A zipper will allow you quick access to your PDW with one fluid motion and ideally no hang ups - which is sadly just not the case with buttons.

This is the reason the majority of jackets for concealed carry are made with zippers, and why that’s what you should be looking for.

It Must Not Print

“Printing” in this instance refers to a scenario in which clothing shows the outline of your gun or holster. It is invariably not a desirable trait.

The entire purpose of concealed carry is just that - it’s concealed. Printing is not only indiscreet, but it can be dangerous in some situations.

Therefore you need a jacket with just enough bulk not to print your firearm, even if it’s a full-sized pistol or revolver with quite a footprint.

It Should Allow a Good Range of Motion and Unrestricted Access to Your PDW

You want a jacket that will allow you good access to your weapon and support it without printing, but which doesn’t bind you.

This is a tricky line to walk because the more flexible a jacket becomes, and the greater the range of motion it offers, usually the less support it offers to what’s in the pockets.

So you need a good jacket that offers a decent middle ground here, offering you good range of motion while still supporting your gun/holster.

It Should Be Breathable and Flexible but Still Protective

Even if the concealed carry jacket you have your eye on has a waterproof membrane, you don’t want it to suffocate you. It should also be comfortable or you will hate wearing it: therefore, it should be breathable and flexible enough to keep you comfortable through most seasons, bringing up the next point.

A Good Concealed Carry Jacket Should Be Practical Through Most Seasons

When you’re looking for a concealed carry jacket, one aspect you’re going to have to trade off is how insulative it is.

If a jacket is too bulky and too warm, it will not print and it will keep you comfortable in the coldest winter months, but at a cost - you won’t be able to wear it through the warmer months of the year.

Conversely, if the jacket is too light, it will be uncomfortable for you to wear during the coldest months of the year.

The solution here lies in a balance - you should look for what we might call a “three-season” jacket. That is, one that you can wear in the spring, fall, and even summer, but might want to trade during the colder months.

Or, optimally, you should get a relatively light jacket that you can comfortably wear during those three months, but which is still roomy enough inside for another midlayer, so you can stay warm when it’s quite cold outside.

That solves both problems, so you can wear the jacket throughout the entire year, and still have easy access to your firearm.

It Should Have Space for Other Accessories

A quality concealed carry jacket should also have plenty of spare space for essentials, for instance, spare mag pockets. Several of the high-quality jackets we carry here have internal pockets with space for spare mags and other accessories as well.

Pockets like these should be zippered or have hook-and-loop flap closures to provide a degree of secondary retention to prevent you from accidentally dropping or losing anything, whether it be a magazine or a personal valuable.

A Quality Concealed Carry Jacket Should Run a Little Bit Large

As stated, you will need the extra space if you ever want to put another layer under the jacket if the temperatures drop.

Even if the jacket has excellent insulation, you will want the flexibility to add another midlayer on exceptionally cold days. If the jacket is too tight, you won’t be able to.

Your Next Concealed Carry Jacket Is Here

Looking for your next concealed carry jacket? You’re in the right place. Fatigues Army Navy carries a wide range of jackets for concealed carry, along with holsters and other apparel and accessories for shooting and personal defense.

Take a look through our catalog and get in touch with us if you have any questions.

Even if you don’t trout fish or hunt turkeys (the true joys of spring) this is a great time to get outside because the earth is waking up. The insects and birds will be singing soon and the wildflowers will be in bloom.

So, let’s get to it. Here are some of the main things you won’t want to forget for a car camping trip.

• Tent, tarp, and stakes: Make sure your tent is big enough for your crew, and get savvy to the fact that manufacturers are sneaks. Many “3-person” tents are scarcely big enough for one person. Go up a size if you have any doubts at all. Also, you need a tarp, stakes, and guy lines.
• Sleeping pad and sleeping bag: Bring a warmer sleeping bag than you think you’ll need. Spring can be hot, but it can also be frigid, especially here in Northeast Pennsylvania. It can freeze hard well into May up here. You can always get out of a sleeping bag, but you’ll regret not bringing one warm enough. Also, make sure you bring a liner (for extra warmth) as well as an appropriate ground pag.
• Appropriate clothing: The camouflage pants and shirt are great. Make sure you also bring a few spare base layers and socks for extra warmth, along with a jacket that’s more than adequate for the temperatures you expect. Many army jackets are a great option. Always keep a hat and gloves in the trunk, too, for unexpectedly cold days.
• Warm clothing as a backup: See above. You will need warm clothes as a backup. If you’re car camping, there’s no excuse not to be prepared. It may be spring, but prepare like it’s January just to be safe.
• Waterproof gear: It’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Always bring a spare poncho and some changes of clothing, just in case. Waterproof footwear is also a must.
• A waterproof bag: This one is a definite must for all of your sensitive electronic gear. A dry bag or dry box can save your phone, tablet, computer, speakers or other electronics in a punch. Again, better to have it and not need it.
• Fire starting equipment: Always be prepared with redundant fire starting A lighter, some matches, and some tinder are all you really need to have but bring along any other tricks you think you might need. A ferrocerium rod as a backup never hurt anyone so you can save your lighter and matches for emergencies.
• A cooking grate: Some campsites will have these prepared, and you can also jury-rig a cooking system with some sticks and lashings (and some basic carving skills) but for a few dollars you can just be ready with a cooking grate. Your call.

• Cooking equipment and food prep: You’ll need at minimum a cutting board, knife, a pot and a pan, along with anything else specialized you’ll need for whatever you plan on cooking.
• Mess kits/mealtime essentials: Bring along enough utensils and plates, as well as paper towels, for everyone you’ll be feeding.
• Seating: Not an absolute essential and some people take pride in their ability to craft camp furniture with their carving and lashing skills, but others would rather pack a folding camp chair. The choice is yours.
• Some salt and pepper: This one is optional but it is amazing what you can do to camp cooking with just a little salt and pepper for flavoring.
• A cooler: Make sure you bring a cooler large enough for all of your perishable items. Also, make sure it fits in the trunk as this is where you will want to store it if you are camping anywhere there are bears around. If you camp early enough they won’t be awake, but it’s always best to keep to the safe side.
• Food: Bring whatever you want to cook - just don’t forget it!
• Water (reusable, collapsible jugs are great): Lots of people bring bottles of water but our suggestion is to get one of those one or two gallon collapsible jugs (or bigger) that are also reusable. They are affordable, less wasteful, and highly convenient. Plus you can carry-in and carry-out with them.
• Towels: Bring paper towels or camp towels, it doesn’t really matter as long as you have enough. Also, if you use paper towels, you can burn them in the fire to reduce waste.
• Flashlights and batteries: Bring several flashlights and spare batteries to make sure you have enough light at night time. One is none and two is one.
• Sunscreen and bug repellent: It may be spring, but the spring sun can be hot. Also, if you’re in a wet area you might have to contend with bugs so it’s good to be prepared with these essentials.
• First aid: Some bandages, athletic tape, and general disinfectant should be all you really need but you do need to have it.
• Entertainment (this one’s on you!): Bring whatever you think you’ll need. A radio, a bluetooth speaker, a projector, some cards or board games, washers, horseshoes - there are lots of ways to have a good time in the woods.
• Tools: You will want, at minimum, a knife, an ax, a hatchet, a saw, and a multitool. These you will need to set up and break down camp, make tools, and prepare food - though they have a million and one other uses as well.
• Paracord and duct tape: Both paracord and duct tape have a plethora of uses and can be used to repair things that have broken at a moment’s notice. Make sure you have some in your pack even if you don’t intend to use them.

                            

Gear Up for Spring Camping Here

Here at Fatigues Army Navy, we carry everything you need for a successful camping trip and then some, from camouflage pants to camp stoves. Check out the links we posted here as well as our prepper supplies so you can be sure you’re prepared for your upcoming spring camping trip, and get in touch with us beforehand if you have any questions.

Spare Magazines

If you carry, you need to carry spare magazines. There may be space for that in your concealed carry jacket but if not, you need to get some spare mag carriers and attach them to your belt. Between two and three should suffice, but let your experience and discretion be your guide.

Pepper Spray

Now on the flipside, if you don’t carry a sidearm, you might want to consider bringing pepper spray along as a non-lethal deterrent. You can get special pepper spray carriers/utility pouches that you can affix to your belt or just keep it in a mag carrier instead.

A Multi Tool

Every utility belt needs a quality multi tool, though let what functions you need be determined by the conditions you commonly face. You’ll never run out of scenarios in which you need a pair of pliers, wire cutters, or a saw to get out of a bind. A good option like a Leatherman Skeletool that has an integral carabiner is a good choice - but there are many others. Just make sure you have a good way to attach it to your utility belt so it doesn’t get lost.

A Knife

There is a reason that every single list of EDC essentials ever concocted has “knife” in the top spot. Actually, there are many reasons. These are the most fundamental and utilitarian tools out there. Get a good belt sheath for your utility belt or use the knife’s clip to affix it to your belt so you have easy access. Both fixed and folding models are suitable, but fixed blades are better for rougher work. The best suggestion is to carry one of each - one is none and two is one, remember.

A Flashlight

A flashlight should be just as high on every EDC essential list as a knife is, even though the uses of the two are totally different. A good flashlight is a must have as you never know when you will be caught in the dark and, as a modification of the old saying goes, “what you can’t see can still hurt you.” Either way, you’re not prepared if you aren’t prepared to get caught in the dark. You’ll be ready with a spare flashlight. Also, if you use a model that takes disposable batteries, make sure you carry some spares - add these to your utility belt as well.

A Lighter

We’re going to put a lighter fairly low on the list of essentials but it’s still a good idea to have one, so if you can make space for it, carry it. Lighters can be used to light fires in an emergency, as well as to light candles if your flashlight dies. They also have other niche uses like cauterizing needles and fusing the ends of synthetic rope. Your belt won’t be that pressed for space. You can probably afford to carry a lighter.

A Pen

Here’s another saying you can add to those that we’ve offered so far in this short article: “if it’s worth remembering, it’s worth writing down.” Take those words to heart and make sure you carry a quality pen in your utility belt or elsewhere on your person. Make sure it’s a tough model that can handle abuse and rough conditions. Preferably, get one made of steel or tungsten alloy that will double as a self-defense implement. Also, if you can afford the space, carry one of those weatherproof notebooks like a Field Notes booklet or a Rite in the Rain waterproof notepad.

A Flash Drive

Flash drives have a niche use so if you don’t think you need one, don’t carry it. All the same, in some lines of work it may be necessary to stay equipped with a way to take quick downloads and make quick uploads. Either way, they’re light, affordable, and practical, and it’s better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it - there’s another saying for you.

Carabiners

Carabiners are light, cheap, and worth their weight in gold .You know why? Because if there’s something that we egregiously overlooked in this guide, or you just didn’t notice it until you saw it and thought, “I wish I could add that to my utility belt,” if you’ve prepared with carabiners, you will be that much more likely to be able to clip it on there. These are your bug-out essentials, because if you forget anything, these will be the spare real estate you need to make last-second adjustments.

Gear Up Your Utility Belt Here

Use this list as a jumping off point. There are other things that experience might have taught you that you need to have on your utility belt, but this is just a good place to start.

Gear up here with these essentials and more - we have them.

Only you know your cold weather tolerance and limits, but where we are, it routinely gets colder than that in the winter, and as long as you are prepared, there’s no reason why you can’t enjoy some cold-weather camping - even at temperatures much below that.

Be ready with these tips.

Dress Appropriately

When it’s cold out, below freezing, it’s more important to dress in several warm layers than wear one insulative shell.

Start with a warm base layer made of a performance synthetic or wool which will either wick away sweat or adsorb it to keep you warm. Cold weather thermal underwear and red union suits are good for this.

Next wear a thick, insulative mid layer to add the most insulative protection, followed by a thicker, waterproof, windproof shell that adds more insulation. Insulated bibs and cold weather insulated coveralls are a good choice for an outer shell.

Wool and synthetics are good. Avoid cotton, which easily absorbs moisture and will suck heat out of you if it gets wet.

Wear Liner Socks and Gloves

Your boots must be rated appropriately according to the conditions you expect, as should your gloves, but you shouldn’t stop there.

You should also wear liner socks and gloves to add some extra protection. Silk socks are a good bet, as are wool gloves.

Use Hand Warmers As Needed

Not everyone needs them, but if you need a little boost to keep your extremities warm, chemical or electronic hand and toe warmers can be a true blessing.

Stay Moving

During the day, stay busy cooking, hiking, cutting firewood - whatever it takes to keep your blood moving.

Keeping active will ensure healthier circulation and will burn more calories, raising your core temperature and keeping you warm.

Just make sure not to overexert yourself because it can be very dangerous to make yourself sweat in the cold.

Stay Fueled and Hydrated

You burn far more calories in the cold trying to stay warm than you do in the summer. Eat high energy snacks throughout the day to keep your caloric needs met. High-energy dry foods like nuts and granola are a great option, as are dried meats like jerky.

You also lose a lot of moisture in the cold, which is problematic because staying hydrated helps to regulate your body temperature. Make sure you drink at least 8 cups of water per day even if you don’t feel thirsty.

Keep Your Boots on

If it’s really cold out, instead of taking your boots off before you get into your sleeping bag, brush off the snow and dirt and just wear them to bed. This move, though unconventional, will help prevent you from getting cold feet (no pun intended) right before bed.

Worst case scenario, you’ll just have to flip your sleeping bag inside out and give it a more thorough cleaning when you get home.

A Note on Sleeping Pads (Double Up)

Never sleep on the ground; always bring a closed-cell foam sleeping pad with you (with an R-value higher than 5) and sleep on that.

Actually, a good technique is to double up on the sleeping pad. Honestly, that would be a lot to carry if you’re backpacking, but it’s no big deal for car campers.

Fluff Your Sleeping Bag Before Sleep

It goes without saying that you should only bring along a sleeping bag that’s rated appropriately for the weather.

But you also need to know how to prepare it before bed. Don’t just unroll it and snuggle up. You should also fluff it out before going to bed because many sleeping bags have insulation that works by trapping air.

That is - the more fluffed they are, the warmer they will keep you.

Cover Your Face Before Sleeping

Do not burrow into your sleeping bag before going to bed because this will trap the moisture from each breath you exhale in your sleeping bag.

After a few hours, that will make your clothing wet, and that is extremely dangerous in the cold.

However, you can still cover your face with a ski mask or a balaclava, or cinch the opening of the sleeping bag’s hood close around your nose and mouth - that will keep the rest of your face warm.

Stay Dry

Take pains to avoid becoming wet as a result of the environment, as this can be dangerous in the cold, but equally important is that you don’t work too hard, because if you do and you sweat, eventually that will cool your core temperature off and that can be quite dangerous.

Vent the Tent

Unless it is raining or snowing heavily, keep the tent’s windows and vents open. This will prevent condensation from collecting on the walls of the tent and then soaking your gear and clothing - which as mentioned multiple times already, is quite dangerous.

Go Before Bed

Not only will holding it in make you uncomfortable and adversely affect your sleep quality, but you don’t want to leave the tent in the middle of the night. Go, even if you think you don’t need to.

Bring a Hot Water Bottle in Your Sleeping Bag

But, avoid placing it at your toes like some guides suggest. Keep it by your core so that it keeps you warm.

…And an Empty One

The reason here is that if you do need to relieve yourself in the middle of the night it will be difficult to get warm again once you return to the tent. Bring an empty disposable water bottle along and use that in the middle of the night if you need to.

Have an Effective Way to Carry All Your Gear, Like an ALICE Pack

If you aren’t car camping, you need an effective way to carry all of your gear, like an ALICE pack.

ALICE packs (and MOLLE packs, too) are useful for carrying all of your winter camping gear because they have a frame that distributes weight well, along with a bunch of divided pockets making it easy to store and organize your gear.

Unless, of course, you are car camping, in which case it matters little.

Gear Up for Winter Camping Here

There’s still another solid month or two of cold temperatures up our way. Before you venture out again, gear up with our long johns, sleeping pads, wool blankets, sweaters, and other cold weather essentials.

Either way, boots need to be cared for, or else they, like everything else, will fall apart - and boots faster than some other things.

On that note, this is a short guide to show you the basics of kids’ combat boots maintenance - because your kids aren’t going to take care of them themselves!

What You Need to Care for Your Kids’ Combat Boots

To properly clean and maintain your kids’ combat boots, regardless of whether they are leather or a performance synthetic, you will need:

• Soft and stiff bristled brushes
• A soft rag or microfiber cloth
• Warm water

As you can see, you don’t need much to clean a pair of boots. If the boots have a waterproof membrane and are vented, you will also want waterproofing spray, and if they are leather or suede, you will want a leather conditioner.

Step One: Clean the Soles

The first thing you will want to do is scrub off the soles, and this is a good place to start because it’s probably going to take the most elbow grease, especially if the boots were worn on gravel or in mud.

Get your stiff-bristled brush and turn each boot over; look at the channels between the lugs in the soles and scrape out any dried mud, dirt, leaves, or any other debris that’s there. If a stiff-bristled brush isn’t sufficient, you can use a metal pick or an old toothbrush for this.

This is an area where mud tends to cake and small bits of gravel tend to get wedged into. Make sure you don’t leave any rocks or anything down there as they will accelerate wear on the soles.

Once the bottom of the soles are clean, use the brush to clean the sides of the soles, as well as the area around the welt, ensuring there is no caked-on mud between the sole and upper along the welt, because this will abrade the welt stitching over time.

Step Two: Clean the Uppers

With the soles cleaned, you can turn your attention to the boots’ uppers. Regardless of whether they are leather, suede, or some performance synthetic upper, you will want to make sure you don’t leave any dirt or mud on there to dry. (One note: before cleaning, remove the laces so you can properly access all parts of the upper.)

In most instances, you should be able to get most dirt and mud off with a little bit of warm water and a soft rag. Microfiber can be extremely effective in this area, but if the mud is partially caked on, break out the soft-bristled brush and scrub it away. Never use a stiff bristled or wire brush on the uppers as it can damage, even gouge them.

Pay special attention to the tongue of the boot and where the tongue folds against the inside of the upper. This is an area where dust and dirt like to hide.

If the boots are particularly dirty, you can use a little bit of a mild detergent like dish soap or saddle soap, but don’t overdo it. Less is more.

Step Three: Dry Fully

After you’ve cleaned off the uppers, remove your kids’ combat boots’ footbeds and place the boots somewhere warm to dry, especially if they are wet through.

If not only the upper but the interiors of the boots are wet, you can try stuffing the boots with crumpled up newspapers to speed up the process of drying the boots out.

You can also use a boot dryer, but whatever you do, do not ever put your boots in a washing machine/dryer, and don’t ever place them directly in front of a strong heat source, as this can damage them beyond repair.

Once the boots are dry, you can either condition or waterproof, where applicable.

Step Four: If Leather, Apply Leather Conditioner

If your kids’ combat boots have leather or suede uppers, applying a leather conditioner from time to time is critical. Leather conditioners help moisturize the leather, keeping it supple, and preventing it from cracking. Most leather conditioners will also either waterproof the leather, or make it more water-resistant.

There are a variety of commercial leather and suede conditioners you can use; always apply these in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer. On the flipside, you can also treat your leather with a combination of neatsfoot oil and beeswax. Just be aware that neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and will make it more flexible, so don’t overapply it. A little bit goes a long way.

Step Five: Waterproof If Applicable

After cleaning and conditioning, if your boots have a waterproof membrane, it’s time to reapply a waterproofing agent.

Again, there are commercial waterproofing treatments you can buy for your shoes. Like leather conditioner these should be applied in the manner recommended by the manufacturer.

Also, if you’ve never done this before, spot test because waterproofers, like leather conditioners, can change the color of boots.

Step Six (Optional): Either Wash or Wax the Laces

Since you have the laces removed, this is a good time to wash them, too. You can wash the laces in a bucket of warm water and dish soap, or, if they are not waxed, you can wash them in the washing machine like other clothing.

Also, if your laces aren’t waxed, it might be a good idea for you to wax them yourself. Waxed laces hold more tightly and also don’t hang onto dirt, dust, and won’t allow water in, keeping them cleaner for longer.

Time for a New Pair of Kids Combat Boots?

Considering the process we outlined, if you’re looking at your kids’ combat boots thinking they’ve seen better days and might be a little too far gone to resuscitate, maybe it’s time for a new pair.

We’re here for that and sell a wide range of kids’ combat boots, including jungle boots, that are great for everything from camping and hiking to just playing around outdoors. Take a look through our collection and get in touch with us at 877-612-1253 if you have any questions.

Whether your discipline is hunting, skiing, or even paintball, when the temperatures dip towards 0℉ (or fall below it) spending time outside without preparing properly can be brutal, if not dangerous.

Worry not. Fatigues Army Navy carries the gear (and has the know-how) to keep you warm even when the weather won’t work with you. Here are our top suggestions.

1. Most importantly: layer wisely.

The single most important thing you can do to stay warm in the cold is to layer wisely. One good outer layer is not enough to keep you warm no matter what its rating is.

You need a base layer (think thermal underwear that you wear next to your skin, see note below) followed by a warm middle layer that will serve to trap most heat and keep you warm.

On top of that, you need an outer shell, or outer layer. This layer should add more insulation and should also be waterproof and windproof, to protect you against the worst elements.

In extreme cold, consider wearing two mid layers, to bulk up your insulation.

2. Keep your clothes loose-fitting.

Your mid layer and outer layer should not restrict your movement and actually should be more or less loose-fitting.

There are two reasons for this. One is that tight-fitting clothes restricts blood flow, which will make you colder.

The other is that looser clothing traps a thicker layer of air, which is actually a great insulator. You don’t want it to be excessively baggy, but looser is better in the cold.

3. Pack spare gloves and hats.

You don’t want wet hands or a wet head, and in adverse conditions, if it’s wet, this is liable to happen.

So, no matter how good your gloves and hat are, pack a spare in your bag so you can swap them if (or when) they get damp.

4. Wear wool.

Have you ever heard the expression, “cotton kills?” This is because when cotton gets wet, it will sap your heat until it dries (which won’t happen as long as you’re wearing the garment.) This is extremely dangerous.

Wool, unlike cotton, retains about 70% of its thermal insulative abilities, even when wet. It can save your life in the cold. Our suggestion is to invest in a quality pair of wool thermal underwear to wear right next to your skin, especially when it is brutally cold.

5. Get quality boots (and double up your socks).

You absolutely need a good pair of boots to wear in the snow. Lug soles tend to perform well as they grip better than smooth or wedge soles. Also, make sure the boots are rated appropriately for the temperature. Waterproof boots are also a must.

Also, if you’re prone to cold extremities, wear two pairs of socks. You can get a pair of silk liner socks, and over those, wear a good, thick pair of wool socks - remember, these will also keep you warm if they get wet.

6. Invest in a quality snow suit.

If you spend a lot of time actually in the snow, a good snow suit is worth the money, especially a set of coveralls that will entirely cover the rest of your clothing.

There are two good reasons for this. One is that the snowsuit will eliminate the seam between your pants and jacket, preventing cold air from entering there.

The other is that a good snowsuit is waterproof, so the snow that gets on it, even if it melts, will roll right off. That will also help keep you warm.

7. Stay active, but don’t overexert yourself.

Next to wearing the proper clothing, keeping active is the second best thing you can do to stay warm.

Just make sure not to overdo it, because sweating will make your base layer wet, which in turn will make you cold.

8. Stay hydrated.

It’s just as easy to get dehydrated in the cold as it is to get dehydrated in the heat, and it can be just as dangerous.

Remember to sip water throughout the day, or carry a thermos with hot tea (coffee will make dehydration worse). Sip on this as needed.

9. If you’re camping, don’t take off your boots to sleep.

When it’s really, really cold, keep your boots on when you get in your sleeping bag. True, it will bring a little dirt in there, but taking off your boots will also make you lose a lot of heat.

Just make sure you thoroughly scrub off the soles. You don’t want to bring any mud or water into your sleeping bag. It will melt and make you cold at night.

One tip, though: if you do this, make sure at some point during the day, you rest your feet by the fire (with socks on) to give your boots and socks some time to air out.

10.  Heat up some water, pour it in a canteen and bring it in your sleeping bag.

Again, when it’s truly, bitterly cold out, you can heat up some water and pour it into an aluminum (or steel) canteen and bring that in your sleeping bag with you. It will help keep you warm in the night.

11.  Always sleep on a ground pad.

Never, ever sleep on the ground when it’s below freezing. The ground will pull heat out of you until you get hypothermic. Always place down a ground pad or a sleeping pad with an appropriate R-value before signing off for the night.

For what it’s worth, if it’s really cold, make sure you wear all your clothing to bed, too. Your body temperature naturally drops at night, and you don’t want to catch a chill in the night. That can be dangerous.

Pack Up the Camo Cargo Shorts: We Have Cold Weather Gear

Fatigues Army Navy carries camo cargo shorts and camo shirts for the warmer months, but right now, your attention should be on quality snowsuits, thermal underwear, and warm outer garments.

We carry them all. Shop our website or visit us in Hawley, Pennsylvania to stock up so you’re ready for the next big freeze.

It was always about function first, and fashion second (if at all). They’ve simply been adopted for and appropriated to the latter.

With that said, you can still incorporate army jackets into your wardrobe effectively, not only for fashion, but as practical outerwear for hiking, camping, hunting, trapping, airsoft, paintball, or other outdoor pursuits.

Or, simply if you need a quality outerwear garment to keep you warm. Here are some top picks from our collection.

Rothco M-65 Field Jacket (Coyote Brown)

The original M-65 field jacket was designed for our troops to be worn in moderate temperatures, between 50℉ and 65℉. M-65 field jackets (also sometimes referred to as field coats) were worn throughout the 60s and 70s.

Today, a variety of companies make reproduction M-65 field jackets, and one of them is Rothco. Their coyote brown version is a great one.

This M-65 repro includes the liner (great for colder days) and is made with a water-repellent outer shell, for toughing it out in inclement conditions.

It also features a concealed hood, along with a heavy brass zipper, a storm flap, adjustable hem, and 4 capacious snap flap front pockets for carrying all of your essential gear.

Rothco Concealed Carry MA-1 Flight Jacket (Sage Green)

Also from Rothco, but not an M-65 Army Jacket, is their Concealed Carry MA-1 Flight Jacket (this one in sage green).

Sage green on the outside and surprisingly warm and comfortable, this concealed carry jacket is also reversible and features a blaze orange lining, making it perfect for hunters. It also has a water-repellent outer shell.

It also features padded concealment pockets on both sides of the jacket (great for right and left handed users) as well as four mag pouches.

In addition, this concealed carry jacket has two inside slash pockets, two front slash pockets, and a zippered utility pocket on the left sleeve.

Rothco Woodland Camo MA-1 Field Jacket

With a classic bomber jacket look, this is basically just an iteration of the concealed carry version of the MA-1 jacket mentioned in the last section.

This Rothco Woodland Camo MA-1 Field Jacket, however, is good for both fashion and function as it has a US Woodland Camo shell (water repellent nylon) as well as a blaze orange liner. Like the former jacket, it is reversible.

This one also features two front and two interior slash pockets as well as a zippered utility pocket on the sleeve along with an outside pencil pocket.

This classic army jacket also features brass zippers with leather pulls for extra durability and style.

Rothco A-2 Brown Leather Flight Jacket

Looking for a leather army jacket that has even more appeal? What you’re looking for is the Rothco A-2 Brown Leather Flight Jacket that we also carry here.

Made from soft, supple, genuine Nappa leather, this jacket offers a vintage look and feel, classically reminiscent of an old fighter pilot jacket, and offering plenty of protection from the elements.

It features a zip-out polyester liner for breathability and extra comfort on especially chilly days, as well as plenty of options for storage, with two front flap pockets with flap and snap closures and two slash pockets behind those.

Great for everyday wear and with a classic look, these leather army jackets are one of a kind.

Alpha M-65 Field Jacket (Olive Drab)

Alpha M-65 Field Jackets (this one in olive drab) are a great option if you like the classic look, feel, and function of the original M-65.

These versions are perfect for civilian wear, and are made with a 50-50 cotton-nylon blend for a good mix of water-repellency and durability, as well as a modicum of warmth.

Tear-resistant, with brass zippers and snap fasteners, these Alpha M-65 field jackets are comfortable, warm, practical, and feature concealed hoods. They’re also equipped with ample pockets for storage.

They’re also great for outdoor sports, as well as for official use amongst law enforcement professionals and first responders, and make great work jackets, too.

Vintage Camo Lightweight Expedition Field Jacket

Another gem from Rothco, these Vintage Camo Lightweight Expedition Field Jackets are a top choice for a wide range of activities, ranging from casual everyday wear to outdoor sports - or just to keep in a trunk bag or bug-out bag for unexpectedly cold conditions.

Made of pre-washed 100% cotton for comfort and durability, this jacket offers plenty of warmth and protection against the elements in moderate conditions. It can also be treated with a waterproofing agent to improve its permeability characteristics for use in wet conditions.

Moreover, it offers plenty of space for storage, with four exterior pockets with button flap closures, so you’ll have no trouble stashing all of your gear.

For Cold Weather: Rothco Vintage Camo M-51 Fishtail Parka

Last but not least, if you are looking for an army jacket for wear in truly cold conditions, check out our collection of military parkas, specifically our Rothco Vintage Camo M-51 Fishtail Parka.

Designed to keep our soldiers warm in the bitter cold of the Korean Peninsula during the winters of the Korean War, the M51 Parka is substantially heavier and warmer than the M-65 field jacket, and this version is no exception.

This one is made with 100% cotton fabric that is not only soft and warm, but durable, and like the jacket mentioned above, can be treated with a waterproofer, to make it better in wet conditions.

This army jacket, like many of the others here, is optimized for space and storage, and features two capacious pockets with snap closures at the front of the shell.

These parkas have had their liners removed, making them better as spring and fall jackets, so if you’re looking for some extra protection in the dead of winter, get an M51 parka liner or a set of M51 field shirts and pants, which are made of heavy wool and which are extremely warm.

Discover These and Other Army Jackets

Not seeing what you’re looking for? Check out our whole collection of army jackets via the previous link, and if you have any questions, contact us at 877-612-1253 and we will be happy to help.

Now all you’ve got to do is pair up your favorite jacket with a camo shirt, a utility belt and some camo cargo shorts and you’ve got the look.

It’s mirrored in a hundred and one other expressions, aphorisms, and true-isms. Consider “a bird in the hand is better than two in the bush,” and Burns’ “the best-laid schemes of mice and men gang aft agley.”

These are all true in their own right. There is value in being prepared.

That’s where pepper supplies come into the picture. You might never need to use them, but it’s always better to have them than not to have them.

So here’s a list of the essential prepper supplies.

So, What Do You Need in a Prepper Supplies Stash?

Start your prepper supplies stash off with some of the following.

• A duffel or bag to carry and organize everything.
• First aid kits: Necessary for all collections of prepper supplies. Useful items to have on hand include rubbing alcohol, iodine, hydrogen peroxide (for disinfection) as well as bandages, gauze, antibacterial ointment, tweezers, gloves, and butterfly sutures - to name just a few. You can also buy pre-made first aid kits. You should also have some basic painkillers and other OTC medication.              
• Food and water: Be sure to keep some MREs on hand as they can be very valuable in a crisis. In addition to a supply of fresh water, you should also have access to water treatment tablets.
• Cooking supplies: At least a pot and a pan. You can improvise your own cooking tripod, but this and a grate are also helpful. The pot is necessary for boiling freshwater supplies, too. A mess kit is also nice to have, as is a canteen or a few spares. You’ll also want a way to collect water and a water filter. Coffee filters are good for removing sediment before disinfection.

• Flashlights: Remember, two is one and one is none. Also, make sure you have spare batteries for your flashlights.
• Warm clothing: This includes outerwear. Wool is better in cold, wet conditions than cotton is. Some wool military survival blankets are worth their weight in gold.
• Clothing that will protect you against bugs, like bug netting.
• Gloves that will protect your hands against hard work and cold weather.
• Sturdy footwear that will support you and protect your feet against water and cold temperatures. Good tactical, hunting, or hiking boots are good for this.
• Multiple redundant ways to start a fire: This includes matches, lighters, spare flints and lighter fluid, paper, and firestarters. You can even use dryer lint and vaseline (which is also useful for first aid).
• A compass: You may need to know where you’re going.

           

• Tools: This includes knives, axes, saws, hatches, screwdrivers, hammers, socket sets and wrenches. You can’t have too many tools, but for a basic bug-out bag, you should have at LEAST a solid fixed blade, saw, hatchet, and one good driver set. A shovel is also good to have.
• Cordage: Paracord is good, and you cannot have enough of it. It’s useful for tying up bundles, making impromptu repairs, lashing packs, making camp furniture, and more. A whole article could be devoted to the uses of paracord alone.

                      

• A way to make power: Small solar and wood-fired generators are good for emergency power to a phone, laptop, or radio in a pinch.
• Dry boxes that protect your most vital and sensitive items in wet and inclement weather.
• Bug repellent and sunscreen.
• Lip balm or vaseline: Useful for treating chapped lips, dry, irritated skin, and much more. You can also use these as tool lubricants or firestarters.
• Tents: Necessary for shelter in the bush; you can also improvise with a tarp.

            

• Personal hygiene products: Toothbrushes, toothpaste, feminine hygiene products, etc.
• A radio: A solar radio is a good option.
• Basic sewing supplies for repairing textiles like gear packs.
• Basing hunting and fishing equipment.
• Can and bottle openers. Military can openers like P51 and P38 can openers are great.
• Candles: These are indispensable for light (and even heat) when the power is out.

              

• Baby and pet supplies.
• Aluminum foil: Good for creating signaling mirrors, as well as for cooking food over a fire if you don’t have cookware.
• Writing utensils and paper (preferably all-weather notebooks).
• Duct tape: Pretty good for making impromptu fixes to just about anything.

              

• Rubbing alcohol: Useful as a disinfectant, can also be used to make a basic camp stove.
• Salt: An essential nutrient, salt can also be used as a disinfectant, for food preservation, or just as a flavoring agent.

This is not a complete list. There are many other prepper supplies that could have value in this stash - but it is a good place to start, and the more you add to it, the better prepared you will be.

Get Your Prepper Supplies and Emergency Preparedness Goods Here!

Fatigues Army Navy has what you need for EDC, for your bug out bag, for your trunk locker, even for your junk drawer!

Get it all here, and if you can’t find something you’re looking for, get in touch with us at 877-612-1253.

This is a time to take a step back and be grateful for all you have in your life - and what better way to show those who are important to you how much they mean to you than by giving?

Here are some of our top picks for kids’ gifts through the Holiday season.

Army Jackets (and Flight Suits)

Army jackets in kids’ sizes make great gifts during the Christmas season. Not only is a jacket a functional piece of outerwear at this time of year, but military coats and flight jackets are great for play.

We sell a wide range of army jackets, including softshell jackets, heavy military parkas, BDU jackets, field jackets, outdoor shirt jackets, and even leather and safari jackets in addition to army surplus jackets.

Our catalog contains highlights from top brands like Rothco (who doesn’t love Rothco?) and a wide range of styles are in the mix.

Also, our camouflage and BDU army jackets are also great gifts for kids who like to play paintball and airsoft, camp, and hike.

Our jacket collection also contains a wide range of flight suits that are great for imaginative kids, too. We even have ghillie suits!

Kids Pants

Want to put together a uniform for your little one? You can’t do that without the bottom half of the outfit!

We sell a wide range of kids’ pants in different sizes, materials, styles, and patterns, including camo. They’re great for playing, cold weather protection, dressing up (use them next year for Halloween!) outdoor sports, and much more.

We carry both solid color and camouflage pants (as well as kids camo pants) that are great for lots of different applications. Plus, they’re great as fashion statements, for those who like to wear camo, too.

Kids’ T-Shirts

In addition to camo t-shirts to match our army jackets and pants, we also carry a wide range of graphic design t-shirts that make great Christmas gifts for kids and other loved ones.

We also carry tigerstripe camo t-shirts, as well as constitutional freedom t-shirts, and performance and training t-shirts, which are great gifts for athletes and lifters.

Making an add-on with these t-shirts is easy - just use them as stocking stuffers to supplement the main gift.

Kids’ Combat Boots

Kids’ combat boots make great gifts and like our army jackets are functional as well as fashionable.

Not only can you make a unique uniform with these combat boots (they’re great at Halloween time) but they’re also great gifts for kids that love to play outdoors, in all seasons.

We carry jungle boots for the warmer seasons and waterproof patrol boots and ranger boots that are better in colder, wetter conditions.

These are great, and highly thoughtful, gifts for kids that enjoy airsoft, paintball, camping, hiking, or hunting with their parents - or just playing outside in general.

Utility Belts

A utility belt itself might not be all that exciting, but when it comes to practicality, they offer a lot.

Besides, if you’re going to get a kid a multi-tool, a compass, a canteen cover, and a flashlight, he or she’s going to need to have a way to carry it, right?

Or, you can just use our utility belts to round out a camo or uniform-inspired gift.

Cold Weather Gear (Red Union Suits)

Fatigues Army Navy is your source for cold weather gear that makes great Christmas gifts for kids (and adults, too!).

We carry a wide range of jackets, bibs, socks, gloves and mittens, heavyweight thermal underwear, and much more. We also carry Rothco red union suits that make great gifts and are perfect as thermals or pajamas.

Cold weather gear from our shop is great for kids that like to play outside in the winter. When the temperature dips and the snow comes down, don’t send them out to sled and build snowmen until they’re properly bundled!

Kids’ Camo Military Gear

Check out our whole collection of kids’ camo military gear at the previous link. We sell a whole lot of stuff that kids will just love, especially those that love outdoor sports or have military aspirations.

In addition to our camo collection, we also carry tactical gear for kids including helmets, vests, bags and backpacks, and more.

Tactical Watches

Tactical watches also make highly practical gifts. Who couldn’t use a high-quality tactical watch, especially a waterproof one that works effectively in the dark? Even if it weren’t for function, they have a lot of cool factor.

Stickers & Decals

Looking for a cheap stocking stuffer that shows your appreciation for a friend or loved one’s patriotism or military service?

Then check out our collection of stickers and decals. They look great in windows, on bumpers, tool boxes and tackle boxes, canteens, and more.

Toys (& Storage)

In addition to these gift ideas, we also carry a wide range of toy sets. Check out our collection of toy buckets and play sets.

For all those little pieces in some of those play sets, ammo cans and dry boxes make great storage containers, too, and they’re cheap. Stock up, they have a bunch of great uses!

Flashlights

Military-style 90° flashlights make great gifts because they are both practical and fun. These flashlights, specifically, are meant to be clipped to a vest or MOLLE-pack for hands-free use. They’re a lot of fun to use and extend activities long after the sun has set!

Other Tactical Gear

Last but not least, we carry a wide range of different tactical gifts that are great for diverse tastes. We carry military binoculars, pouches, tents, compasses (great for teaching orienteering), canteens, helmets, blankets (great for camping), netting, and much more.

Many of these make great stocking stuffers and you can discover our full collection of military accessories/gear/gifts right here.

Military Surplus & More

Whether you’re looking for an authentic military jacket for a kid or just some cool accessories to stuff a stocking, we have what you need and much more in the mix.

Take a look through our catalog and stock up while you still have time!

The great thing about public lands is they’re public. The rough part is, deer on public lands are usually more wary than their private land brethren, and what’s worse, they’ve been listening to small game hunters traipsing around for months. They’re already on high alert.

It won’t get any better once the rifle hunters start making a racket.

So, with that said, here are some basic tips that might turn the tide in your favor this fall rifle season.

Cover Your Scent

Not all hunters use scent control, that is true, but doing so can give you an edge.

Make no mistake about it. Even though you can get close to deer while you smell like yourself, those encounters are 1000 to 1.

It’s better to try to control your scent as much as possible. Shower with scent free soap, keep clean, and keep your hunting clothes out of your closet.

In fact, one trick is to keep your hunting clothes sealed in a bag with leaves and dirt. This will help cover your scent and make what scent you do disperse smell like it came out of the woods and not out of your house.

Be Quiet

Even though scent is by far the largest deterrent to a deer, noise is definitely number two.

Don’t get sloppy or antsy while you’re in your stand, or when you’re going to or from it.

Be quiet with your truck door, gun case, and zippers, and walk slowly, and as silently as possible. One good way to tell if you’re too loud is to listen to the woods.

If the bugs stop calling, the songbirds start alarm calling, and the squirrels start barking when you walk by, you’re moving too aggressively and making too much noise.

You want the woods to take no notice of you. The same goes for when you’re in your stand. Move as little as possible, as any noise you make will spook any deer within earshot.

Don’t Be Seen

Deer don’t have the same level of visual acuity as humans, and they’re more likely to see patterns than they are to see colors. That’s why your blaze orange might not spook them.

All the same, matching a pattern is much more important. That is, don’t use a different pattern on your camo shirt than you do on your rifle case or on your bibs. Be consistent and match the backdrop as closely as possible.

If You Aren’t a Good Caller, Don’t Call at All!

During the rut, rattling, snorting and wheezing can be a really effective way to draw in ornery bucks who drop their guard for a second thinking that there’s a rival male hoofing their turf.

But, there’s a catch. If you can’t call, or aren’t confident in your calling abilities, don’t do it. No sound is better than one made in the “wrong” accent.

Deer aren’t stupid, and if the cadence and tenor of your calling is off, they will avoid you more often than they will fly to you.

So, when in doubt, be still and silent.

Know the Signs

Although not always, bucks will often revisit their scrapes and rubs. Look for young growth; anywhere saplings have the bark around their trees rubbed off, that’s sign of a buck.

The same goes for chewed overhanging limbs - that’s buck sign. Look for this, and see if you can get your stand in the vicinity.

Post Your Stand Over a Funnel

Funnels are habitat edges that deer naturally follow when they’re moving to and from food, water, and bedding areas.

Bucks will chase does up and back down these funnels throughout the course of a day. One trick is to look along the edge of a wood, or where a field breaks. Deer will follow these edges, and you should target them.

Don’t Let Your Stand Ruin Your Chances of Success

Let us be very clear. What we mean is, don’t get sloppy when hunting from a stand.

Hunting from a stand will give you a better view of your surroundings, and will help prevent your scent from pooling around the ground, but you should still be very conscientious, alert, silent, and still.

Remember, a stand is not a blind.

Go Where Other Hunters Aren’t

Think for a moment. How often do you bump into other hunters when you’re within, like, 100 yards of wherever the state game land’s gravel lot is?

Most of the time, right? Go in farther. Get as far from other hunters as you can. Within a few days, deer will profile the movements of hunters and stay far, far away.

Your legwork will increase your chances of getting close to deer, especially as they recede from areas with a lot of hunter activity.

Be There When Other Hunters Aren’t

Show up early, and stay late. Hunt all of your legal light. This may make the difference between a punched tag and a boring season.

Deer will respond to hunting pressure by becoming increasingly nocturnal. This means your chances of seeing one moving very early or very late will be greater as time goes on.

Be Calm, Be Patient

It’s easier said than done, but try to keep your wits about you when a deer does materialize within range.

It’s way too easy to jump the gun and shoot too soon, or get nervous, think you’re going to miss your window of opportunity, and take a poor shot. Don’t do it. Wait for the right moment before dropping the hammer.

In the same vein, try to fight the boredom in your stand. It’s rough sitting out there for 3, 5, 8, even 10 hours at a time without seeing a deer.

Hang in there and listen. Sometimes, the squirrels and birds will tell you when a deer is moving in the woods. Also, sometimes rattling and snorting deer will betray their own positions.

Just be patient. It pays.

Too Late to Scout? Get Ready for Next Seasons Now

It’s too late this year for you to scout, but if you come up empty handed before rifle season closes and you have no plans to hunt the flinter season, make your resolution to start scouting now before next year.

Find the food sources, find the funnels, and read the tracks. You should spend more time scouting in the spring and summer than you do hunting in the fall.

The point is this: scouting is like studying and hunting is the test. You aren’t going to score well if you don’t prepare ahead of time.

So, if you didn’t scout enough this year, make sure to scout double time before next November rolls around.

Camo Shirts to Field Gear: Fatigues Army Navy Has You Covered

We’re here to help with last minute essentials. Either shop online or come visit us in store to stock up on some spare camo shirts, boots, outerwear, binoculars, blaze orange gear, or other hunting essentials before rifle season opens. It’s basically here!

Good luck and be safe.